Well got my 94 SSEi back on the road today after a 2 year hiatus. I have run the car and driven it around the block every so often during it'* garaged time. Now some issues:

EGR valve......does it get mucked up or anything while sitting?
AC.....no longer blows cold air.....and the clutch on the compressor is cycling on and off every 5-10 seconds. it'* a closed system so has it leaked out or do I check the condensor core?
Auto lights.....wont work any more......is that the sensor on top of the dash left of the hud that needs replacement?

I think the air/heat exchanger is sticking.....how big of a job is it to fix that motor that opens and closes it? Is it the same motor that shifts the air flow from the floor to the windshield becasue that function still works?

Very loud crunching sound from both front struts on hard left or right turns.....what'* that going to cost me? Struts?

I just got a new cat and muffler so at least something is fixed and working.

How much of a pain will it be to replace the front emerg cable that goes into the pedal? That'* snapped as well.

It has the digital EGR valve, you can try cleaning it with TB cleaner and such but that does not have the same effect as with the older linear EGR valve style. I'd try cleaning it and the stovepipe tube that goes to the manifold, if no go you probably need to find an EGR valve, luck has it though, they are usually around $20-$50 used and even new on ebay for that price every once in a while.

Odds are the R134a has leaked out, you can press the high pressure line schrader valve (located on the strut tower) and see if any pressure comes out, if no hiss the system has been contaminated with air, if there is still a little bit of pressure like my 93 ssei you can refill it with the correct stuff, walmart even has the do-it-yourself cans of 134a.....on mine I had to empty 2 cans of R12 in the system and it has worked ever since.

Ahh, the twilight sentinal, should be an easy fix, not sure what fuse it uses, but start there, next would be to check the connections behind the headlight switch and finally the connections at the day/light sensor in the middle of the dash, if all the conenctions are reseated and tight and not corroded you may need to replace either the switch or that sensor in the dash.


thats the air mix door actuator. According to who I spoke with there are several doors in these cars, the air mix door controls whether you get hot or cold air, another door decides where the air goes...defrost floor or middle vents. Are you getting very little airflow or are you only getting airflow at the defrost vents?

another thing to check is all the vaccum lines, if one is not plugged in you will not be able to control where the air goes becuase I believe even in your year the door that controls where the air goes is based off the vaccum going to the little box near the brake booster. check the lines buddy. if you dont have airflow you need to clean out the air box below the maxi-fuse relay section. I posted a half-a$$ way to do it that would work or you can take the whole thing off.

This sounds like bad endlinks on the sway bars, a $20 fix at autozone. read up on energy suspension endlinks on the forums here.

I dont think it could possibly be that hard, it should be in sections I thought fo the adjustment. I've never personally done it so I couldnt tell you.

94 has the Linear EGR, not the digital. Digitals typically respond well to cleaning, Linears like 94 and newer typically are less than 50%. But it'* worth a try.

Great info and help guys. Thanks. Now to find the time! Boosty...wanna make a run upto Ontario?????

your right I always get them reversed. I had the right Idea though.