92 bonnevill no start
09-26-2015, 10:23 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
92 bonnevill no start
my car was idling started to run rough then died getting no spark changed ignition module still cranks no fire, plugs are dry did diy code test and got
#1- 12 ( of course)
#2- 21
#3- 22
#4- 42
#5- 58
checked all fuses, and connections,
my next step is going to be change crank shaft position sensor but never did more then minor thing to a car, (even messed up on replacing a carb on a 66 chevy pickup ) but don't have the money to take it in to a shop and not sure if that is the problem since code 19 never came up and looks hard but want to learn
please help
#1- 12 ( of course)
#2- 21
#3- 22
#4- 42
#5- 58
checked all fuses, and connections,
my next step is going to be change crank shaft position sensor but never did more then minor thing to a car, (even messed up on replacing a carb on a 66 chevy pickup ) but don't have the money to take it in to a shop and not sure if that is the problem since code 19 never came up and looks hard but want to learn
please help
09-27-2015, 06:47 PM
#2
Senior Member
True Car Nut
If my list is correct,
21- TPS Signal Voltage High
22- TPS Signal Voltage Low
42- Electronic spark timing circuit
58- PASS Key Fuel enable circuit
42 I believe is associated with a knock sensor, and I don't believe would cause a no start.
I recall there being an issue with '92 PCM'* and there was always a code floating in them despite them running fine. My guess is code 58, but I could be wrong.
That leaves the TPS, both a code for high voltage and low voltage. I would check that out to make sure it'* working properly. If it has failed, it can cause a no-start condition. Have you unplugged the TPS at any point while troubleshooting?
21- TPS Signal Voltage High
22- TPS Signal Voltage Low
42- Electronic spark timing circuit
58- PASS Key Fuel enable circuit
42 I believe is associated with a knock sensor, and I don't believe would cause a no start.
I recall there being an issue with '92 PCM'* and there was always a code floating in them despite them running fine. My guess is code 58, but I could be wrong.
That leaves the TPS, both a code for high voltage and low voltage. I would check that out to make sure it'* working properly. If it has failed, it can cause a no-start condition. Have you unplugged the TPS at any point while troubleshooting?
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wolfeeyy (09-27-2015)
09-27-2015, 10:12 PM
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
you got the same codes I got I tried to remove the harmonic balancer but un able to as I have no impact wrench but strips of my belt the got shredded started to pull out it is wound in so bad I can not pull it out any indea on how to remove it
and tps I did remove to make sure they were clean but put them right back
the is a sensor on the back side of the harmonic balancer showing bare wires not sure what senor that is and were the wires go is there a place to go to see good diagrams of the motor ? thanks this is a learning experience free cars are not free lol
and tps I did remove to make sure they were clean but put them right back
the is a sensor on the back side of the harmonic balancer showing bare wires not sure what senor that is and were the wires go is there a place to go to see good diagrams of the motor ? thanks this is a learning experience free cars are not free lol
09-27-2015, 10:57 PM
#4
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Behind the harmonic balancer is the Crankshaft position sensor.
Unplugging the TPS would explain code 22, but not code 21, and is something you should double check because it'* an easy check, and will also cause a no-start.
The harmonic balancer bolt is easiest with a good impact, but the next best option is to have a buddy jam a pry bar in to the flex plate teeth from underneath (inspection cover comes off next to the starter) and get it from the top with a 6 point 1/2 drive. 18"+ 1/2" drive recommended. The final method is to jam a breaker bar on the bolt against a frame member and bump the starter. This method is really sketchy and runs the highest risk of breaking something or rounding off the head of the bolt, and may not even work.
Also, be aware that the balancer is press fit on the crankshaft, so you will need a puller. Also be aware that the 3800 balancer doesn't use threading found on most standard puller bolts, so you will need to look up what kind of bolts you need for the puller, and acquire them if it doesn't come with them.
On our '90 SSE, we resorted to method 2 and bought a 24" 1/2" drive breaker bar to do the deed. This was after frying 2 electric impact wrenches, breaking sockets, and even giving method 3 a go too. On my '93 PA I used a pneumatic impact which wasn't very eager to move it either, but got it broke loose finally (upper level harbor freight special).
Just be careful with it, because it'* going to take a lot of force to get it out, and at some point you will probably believe something is not going to survive, but in the end it'* either going to work out, or you're going to be completely hosed.
I also think the CPS is adjustable, so if you move it, make sure it'* adjusted properly before reinstalling the HB.
Unplugging the TPS would explain code 22, but not code 21, and is something you should double check because it'* an easy check, and will also cause a no-start.
The harmonic balancer bolt is easiest with a good impact, but the next best option is to have a buddy jam a pry bar in to the flex plate teeth from underneath (inspection cover comes off next to the starter) and get it from the top with a 6 point 1/2 drive. 18"+ 1/2" drive recommended. The final method is to jam a breaker bar on the bolt against a frame member and bump the starter. This method is really sketchy and runs the highest risk of breaking something or rounding off the head of the bolt, and may not even work.
Also, be aware that the balancer is press fit on the crankshaft, so you will need a puller. Also be aware that the 3800 balancer doesn't use threading found on most standard puller bolts, so you will need to look up what kind of bolts you need for the puller, and acquire them if it doesn't come with them.
On our '90 SSE, we resorted to method 2 and bought a 24" 1/2" drive breaker bar to do the deed. This was after frying 2 electric impact wrenches, breaking sockets, and even giving method 3 a go too. On my '93 PA I used a pneumatic impact which wasn't very eager to move it either, but got it broke loose finally (upper level harbor freight special).
Just be careful with it, because it'* going to take a lot of force to get it out, and at some point you will probably believe something is not going to survive, but in the end it'* either going to work out, or you're going to be completely hosed.
I also think the CPS is adjustable, so if you move it, make sure it'* adjusted properly before reinstalling the HB.
09-28-2015, 12:43 AM
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Behind the harmonic balancer is the Crankshaft position sensor.
Unplugging the TPS would explain code 22, but not code 21, and is something you should double check because it'* an easy check, and will also cause a no-start.
The harmonic balancer bolt is easiest with a good impact, but the next best option is to have a buddy jam a pry bar in to the flex plate teeth from underneath (inspection cover comes off next to the starter) and get it from the top with a 6 point 1/2 drive. 18"+ 1/2" drive recommended. The final method is to jam a breaker bar on the bolt against a frame member and bump the starter. This method is really sketchy and runs the highest risk of breaking something or rounding off the head of the bolt, and may not even work.
Also, be aware that the balancer is press fit on the crankshaft, so you will need a puller. Also be aware that the 3800 balancer doesn't use threading found on most standard puller bolts, so you will need to look up what kind of bolts you need for the puller, and acquire them if it doesn't come with them.
On our '90 SSE, we resorted to method 2 and bought a 24" 1/2" drive breaker bar to do the deed. This was after frying 2 electric impact wrenches, breaking sockets, and even giving method 3 a go too. On my '93 PA I used a pneumatic impact which wasn't very eager to move it either, but got it broke loose finally (upper level harbor freight special).
Just be careful with it, because it'* going to take a lot of force to get it out, and at some point you will probably believe something is not going to survive, but in the end it'* either going to work out, or you're going to be completely hosed.
I also think the CPS is adjustable, so if you move it, make sure it'* adjusted properly before reinstalling the HB.
Unplugging the TPS would explain code 22, but not code 21, and is something you should double check because it'* an easy check, and will also cause a no-start.
The harmonic balancer bolt is easiest with a good impact, but the next best option is to have a buddy jam a pry bar in to the flex plate teeth from underneath (inspection cover comes off next to the starter) and get it from the top with a 6 point 1/2 drive. 18"+ 1/2" drive recommended. The final method is to jam a breaker bar on the bolt against a frame member and bump the starter. This method is really sketchy and runs the highest risk of breaking something or rounding off the head of the bolt, and may not even work.
Also, be aware that the balancer is press fit on the crankshaft, so you will need a puller. Also be aware that the 3800 balancer doesn't use threading found on most standard puller bolts, so you will need to look up what kind of bolts you need for the puller, and acquire them if it doesn't come with them.
On our '90 SSE, we resorted to method 2 and bought a 24" 1/2" drive breaker bar to do the deed. This was after frying 2 electric impact wrenches, breaking sockets, and even giving method 3 a go too. On my '93 PA I used a pneumatic impact which wasn't very eager to move it either, but got it broke loose finally (upper level harbor freight special).
Just be careful with it, because it'* going to take a lot of force to get it out, and at some point you will probably believe something is not going to survive, but in the end it'* either going to work out, or you're going to be completely hosed.
I also think the CPS is adjustable, so if you move it, make sure it'* adjusted properly before reinstalling the HB.
10-07-2015, 02:20 PM
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
got car running fan belt from the water pump seizing got strips of belt breaking the crankshaft sensor now having more issues the cam shaft sensor code it on did put in a new senor and plug from a junk yard think it is all wiring now 
was offered $100 bucks to take it to a junkyard
was offered $100 bucks to take it to a junkyard
10-07-2015, 04:08 PM
#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
10-07-2015, 09:30 PM
#9
Senior Member
True Car Nut
"the csp sensor is in the front as in by the front bumper the bare wired sensor is behind and toward the cab"
Your crank shaft sensor is behind the harmonic balancer, and the camshaft sensor is above it slightly to the left....how in the world is that the same description? Front bumper?
Your crank shaft sensor is behind the harmonic balancer, and the camshaft sensor is above it slightly to the left....how in the world is that the same description? Front bumper?
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Mad_Coachman (10-17-2015)
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