I did my oil change today and went to start it after and there was no cranking. This happened once before and aftermucking around for a few days the car started again. I am certain it is a PASS-Key issue. I have all the wiring diagrams. I checked all fuses correct and tried a different key. I checked for power during crank to the Park/Neutral position switch and there was none. Working back, the next step is the Starter Enable Relay. The Mitchells On-Demand says it is behind left side of dash, left of steering column. I have pulled that dash right apart under there. No relay. I followed the yellow wire (starter) from the ignition switch and unfortunately I still cannot find it. Has any changed or checked one? Second, where is the PASS-Key Decoder Module located?

If I can locate these components then I can properly diagnose this problem.

P.*. The Security light stays activated while in start or run, could this be a problem with the key resistor sensing terminals?

I tried a few more times and got it to crank, only a couple of times and then it would stall right away. My wiring diagram says the 2 wires for the pellet are black and white and purple and white. I don't see wires matching those descriptions coming from the column. Mitchells is a little less than reliable. Anyone done the bypass and know the colours? I want to test the resistance as I turn the ignition.

The starter enable relay is located behind the dash just below the windshield (deep behind the cluster) and can not be accessed without dash removal. The VATS module in a 93 is above the heater core "box" and also can not be accessed without dash removal. It'* the small black box above the air mix door lever in the pic.



You have the correct wire colors but this is after the main ignition harness connector. Before the connector, the wires are white and enclosed in an orange tube of sorts.

Has the key been cleaned with pencil erase? Dipped in alcohol and placed into the lock cylinder to clean contacts inside lock? Has a second key been tried?

If the key works part of the time that is a good sign. Does the position of the tilt wheel make a difference. The usual explanation I was given was that the little wires break due to the tilting of the wheel up and down. I had a 93 LeSabre with the security light on. BUT it would crank just fine. They got me for $150 or more for the repair. Now I know I could just spent time under the steering column and solder in a resistor and fix it myself after reading this discussion group!

This is the link I used to find out how to bypass mine. Worked like a charm, and that includes finding the right resistor at Radio Shack for a buck.

Good luck.

http://www.12vp.com/info_resistors.htm

After work today I looked at the postings and I agree that it must be the pellet contacts. I have been having problems with my steering column. I looked for the wires but I am still unable to identify the proper ones. I found a connector that looks like it should be it but there are 4 wires coming from it. They are small and in a wrap. I have taken a picture of the column wires. I tested the green and the black and white wires for resistance with the key in but I am reading open. That would the problem if they are the correct wires. Can I have someone just confirm on the pic if that is the correct connector. The resistance of the key is 2.987K Ohms, so the closest is 3K. I will then have to bring a resistor from work. They don't sell resistors at Radio Shack here in Canada. Thanks for the help.

The orange "cable" behind the airbag harness contains the VATS wires. The yellow airbag harness passes right in front of the VATS wires right at the Warning label in your pic.

Again, there are two very small white wires in this orange covering. The ignition harness connector is seen at the far left of your pic. If you look on the other side of the connector oppesite of the two white wires that are in the orange tube, you'll find the BLK/WHI and PPL/WHI wires. From there they travel to the VATS module.

Is the orange tube the one that loops around the bundle of wires going over and then through to go into the large connector at the bottom left?

Yes, I think I understand your description. The one that runs all by itself after it comes out from behind the yellow airbag harness.

I gotta reload photoshop.

Hrrrrrrr,

Finally got ahold of a resistor. They are bloody hard to find without going all over green acres!! Installed the resistor, starter turned over but would stall. Then the engine started grinding and banging while turning over. I turned the engine over by hand a couple of times to reassure myself that the engine mechanically was not coming apart. I pulled the starter off to inspect the flywheel and it was okay. Bench tested the starter and it was okay as well. Reinstalled and same noise. Starter not engaging well. Ordered new starter (it was original, believe it or not). Changed it this morning and it turns over great. The old starter was drawing alot of amps. It now starts and then stalls. I measure the resistor and and the keys again. Resistor is at 2936 ohms and the keys are at 2998 ohms. According to Mitchells they have to be within 10 ohms of each other. I am certain that the reason it was not turing ovver in the begining was because there was a complete open in the pellet circuit. Now there is a reading so it turns over but it is an incorrect reading so it then stalls. The security lights stays on as soon as the key goes to run and stay * on until I take the key out. Do you guys know if that 10 ohms difference is correct or am I chasing a ghost?