Well, it would not cost very much, nor take much effort to install a drilled 195F thermostat and fill it according to Techinfo to make sure that is not the problem. I presume the dealer installed a 195 thermostat? But who knows how or if they bled the system properly. Maybe with such a simple task, they assigned it to the owner'* nephew.
With a new water pump, new thermostat and no air bubbles, you should be getting up to temperature with no problems. I really cannot think of any other reason why the temperature should not be rising to the thermostat set point. It could seem that way, I suppose, if you have a plugged up heater core (preventing sufficient flow to warm the thing up) and a bad gauge.
Without maiming yourself, you might want to check the temperature of the heater hoses going (top) and coming (bottom) from the heater core. These should both be nearly as warm as the top radiator hose. If you have a non-contact (infrared) thermometer, you could just shoot each and determine the temperature. If you find the top hose hot and the bottom one cold, that would suggest a plugged heater core.
These cars have a bad habit of eating the little electric stepping motor that controls a flap in the ductwork providing air flow through the heater core. It is called an air-mix door actuator and changes position in response to your commands for temperature. It the door is stuck closed, you get no heat. When that is the problem and the heater core is OK, the hoses to and from the core will be nice and hot.
Someone else may have a better idea, but if it hasn't been done for a while, cleaning the throttle body and the IAC pintle and passages is cheap, easy, and the third thing I would do to address the fast idle problem after checking for sticking linkage and vacuum leaks.
The Techinfo method will be fine for cleaning the throttle body. (That'* why we put it there!