Hi, trying to end the repair fiasco from the UIM leak which killed my bearings requiring a complete O/H. Heres the deal. 95 Bonneville SE
WHen the engine was pulled and repaired the guy who did this ( a very unprofessional type), failed to complete his task of putting every bolt in the water pump etc... A few trips to local pick a part has gotten me the required bolts.
Tests reveal this...
there is spark- which is a good thing..
oil pressure - strong 40 PSI
but there is no sound from the fuel pump... which is a bad thing..this thing would go bad ,,, just from sitting at a mechanic'* (loose term in this situation)place for the past 8 months?

If i spray some fuel into TB, we get a start up -good for about two seconds , but because there is no regulated Fuel /air being put in, the car dies...

I have checked the fuel pump fuse (20 amp) thats good. Did I miss a relay?
My next logical course is to drop the tank. correct? and then check for voltage coming in.... correct?
If I am getting the voltage, replace the fuel pump amd sock....heck the sending unit as well, since I'm down there...

I am not happy with the chiltons manual.... the repair manuals have become a fast food information tool... no real value, just quick and dirty...

I tried using the search forum and read just about everything.... so thats why im posting this one.... I'd love to have the bonney running ... I'd give up my 04 GMC for a bit to drive it.....

Sounds like you've done your homework already.

Just for kicks, have you tested the Fuel Pump Regulator (FPR)?

And it is looking like you may have a fried fuel pump. It is not unheard of for a car of your year to let go. The 8 months of setting just may have given it the time it needed to freeze up. If you decide you're going ahead and replacing the pump, do take the time to replace the sender unit too. They have a nasty habit of getting tired.

If you drop the tank, you should probably just go ahead and get a new set of tank straps and replace those with new also.

As far as the Chilton'* manual goes, I've heard that it is better than the POS Haynes for our cars, but someone of your apparent abilities should look into getting a used HELMS set of Factory Service Manuals (FSM'*) off ebay. Some have been lucky enough to find them for pretty cheap.

Behind your battery, you should see a single wire with a green connector on it. Reading that contact to ground for ohms, it should open and close based on the fuel pump relay'* state.

If you jumper 12V to it from the battery, you should hear the fuel pump run.

Before dropping the tank.. double check the power to fuel tank via the green connector (not plugged into anything) directly next to the battery on the passenger fender.

With that having power..then most likely you have a fuel pump issue, also check the connector going to the tank. This can be found and seen from under the car at the back end of the tank.

With the information you mention about this "so called professional" you'll want to double and triple check things before buying.

OK - Ive gotten some good information, for the next series. On the matter of the fuel pressure regulator, I did open the schrader(sp?) valve to check for pressure (none).

and Believe me- I did EYE that green connector as being the next thing to check. I don't recall the manual addressing that and wanted to come to you experts before trying such a thing... and believe me I had read about the connector(here of course- good site!).
Ill check for continuity first and then if that checks out feed it 12v to listen to the sound of the pump.
Now will the pressure regulator keep the pump from working? I hadn't heard of that one before.. I did have to get my hands on some of the rubber vacum hoses that were connected to the parts bonneville (may she rest in peace and know that parts of her are being transplanted-)... The vacumm wouldn't keep the pump from working (my hopefully logical guess)..

Thanks , and I'll keep you all informed about the progress..

MIke

the pressure regulator merely regulates pressure by determining the amount of fuel that is returned to the tank. So, no..it shouldn't be able to keep the pump from running.

And your vacuum issues should not keep the pump from running either.

They do need to be fixed, though...

Lets not forget the impact sensor/inertia switch may have been 'tripped' purposely to prevent the pump from accidentally running and spraying fuel all over while he was working on it...
Hey, its a longshot but worth taking the minute to check it.

Just a quick note back- When I connect the fuel pump test lead by the battery- i get the fuel pump sound. I also havent checked for continutity from the pump to ground

I havent hooked up a pressure gauge to it to verify pressure at the regulator yet, but I still need to find out why the pump doesnt work when the key is on.

When i spray gas into the throttle body- I can start. but it wont start with the fuel pump bypass connected...

I know I only have about a gallon and a half of gas in the tank right now ( im not about to fill it up if I still end up dropping the tank because the pump is weak -pressure wise)

whats the next step in the quest for bonneville knowledge and nirvana?

BTW- i do NOT get any security code on the screen.

thanks in advance

Mike

#1..when you hook up? What do you mean? You should see 12+ volts with a multimeter. Connect black lead to battery ground and the red lead to the connector. Do you get 12+V when the car is turned on?
#2 if the pump does work..then pressure isn't the issue..pump not working all the time is. Seems power related..see #1
#3.. Need a better description..what is a fuel bypass?