The stuff I posted is on a 97 Bonneville and applies exactly..it'* a different trans, but looks nearly idential from the outside.

The left side is the tougher side to pop the axle out of the trans. This is because the subframe is in the way of getting a decent shot between the case cover and the rear of the CV joint. I've found the Gearwrench prybar #82248 works wonders in this situation. Although it'* a bit overkill for most guys starting out. It would also be perfect for prying down on the control arms. Just sayin.. a man should have kick butt tools and overkill never breaks when you are balancing your life on it.

The way the axle is held to the trans is like this.. the transmssion has an output shaft that is hooked to the differential at the passenger side. It spans all the way to the driverside and on the driverside end of it there is a groove. In that groove is a little round compressable clip. The CV joint is female and has a small groove inside. When the axle slides on the clip expands slightly to hold it in place. Therefore a quick jerk or yank works best to allow the cllip to compress and the axle comes off. Putting pressure on it and pulling harder only binds it better.

Bill---

I notice how clean and new looking your parts are. Mine have been through about 15 Iowa and Minnesota Winters, so I wonder whether the ball joint and the hub spline will come apart so easily.

I don't have a long pry bar, but maybe I can buy a long section of say 1 inch pipe or conduit. I don't have a helper either, so I might have to hang something heavy from the pry bar while I rap the ball joint.

But what do people think of my idea of instead unhinging the control arm so I can swing the knuckle out as if I had separated the ball joint?

I guess I am asking how hard it is to detach and reattach the control arm at the frame.

whoops didn't see this message of yours before posting my latest ... now processing ...

Bill--- Thanks for confirming my guess about how the clip holds the inner joint housing to the transaxle. So I'll try to knock it loose with one decisive lick. And I can see why SSEIDRIVER97 says to push it in before trying to knock it loose.

You really don't need a helper..i've done many axles alone...let us know how it all comes out...My Name is Dakota for future refrence

Okay, nobody is showing any enthusiasm for the idea of unhinging the control arm, so I will try to separate the ball joint by rapping it while prying the control arm down, as advised. I intend to use an ordinary 30"-or-so wrecking bar for that. I hope it will be adequate---further comments would be appreciated. I also have a 15" and an 8" pry bar for quick-prying the inner CV joint housing away from the transaxle.

To raise a new issue, I wonder whether I should replace the output-shaft seal while I am at it, or whether the procedures described present any danger of damage to the seal. I don't think the existing seal shows any signs of significant leakage.

if its not damaged and not leaking why replace it...my 94 had 458k on it with no leaks at all hehe...the problem with unbolting the control arm is it will be more work to line it back up then it will the ball joint..IMO

Dakota--
You probably have a point about aligning the control arm when reassembling with the hub already installed. But what if I install the hub assembly last? I have to R&R the hub assembly as well as the axle.

BTW I will be using crow bars, not wrecking bars or pry bars as I wrote by mistake earlier.

Some of us have stuff after work.. lol it'* not that we don't like ya.. we like you already.

If you remove the two bolts..you'll have a similar fight on your hands. Only difference is ..you'll need an alignment as well. Right, those bolts are the alignment. Sure you can spray paint and make a pattern of where the pieces were and be close. It'* possible.

I was taught by a mechanic buddy that this is the quickest, least intrusive way and I share. At the time of the pictures my parts had ~12 years and 220K miles on them.

only picture i've ever seen of that car bill