1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

%#$@$##@#%$*^%%^!!!!!!!!!!

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Old 07-11-2005, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by willwren
I just checked out a 3/8" drive swivel-head torque wrench from work. Swivels in only one axis, rather than 2 like a universal. That'll solve the problem.
Thats great, tell us how it works.
Old 07-11-2005, 10:05 PM
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Default Re: %#$@$##@#%$*^%%^!!!!!!!!!!

Originally Posted by Foghorn
Originally Posted by willwren
I'm trying to be anal about this, as I'm using gaskets on the re-install. Anyone got a clue?
Bill, come in out of the sun for a while :P .

Don't bother with the torque wrench, if you want to practice on another bolt and check with the torque wrench to compare tightness. Otherwise, use something like a 1/4" drive ratchet where you know it'* unlikely you'll over torque.

I use gaskets on mine and just used a 6" wrench to tighten...no leaks.

Don't do like I did this weekend though...I did the front passenger wheel bearing and broke a 3/8 to 1/2 adaptor getting it off and broke the TorX 55 on the last on the way in. Still, only took 1/2 an hour.

Cheers,
Not to hijack this thread, but I have to say, Foghorn, I love your 40th.......
Old 07-11-2005, 10:53 PM
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Don't bother with the torque wrench, if you want to practice on another bolt and check with the torque wrench to compare tightness. Otherwise, use something like a 1/4" drive ratchet where you know it'* unlikely you'll over torque.

I use gaskets on mine and just used a 6" wrench to tighten...no leaks.
As anal as I am about using torque wrench readings, this was the way I had to do it also. No leaks and I checked after over a year and all is still tight. Not something I would do with head bolts but exhaust flanges aren't that fussy. Most you have to retorque after a few heat cycles anyways. I know our gaskets are solid steel so should have no compressibility issues. Turn of nut method should work but arm strong method using a small wrench does the trick.
Old 07-11-2005, 10:59 PM
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You can see from the pics, if the head didn't swivel, neither the front nor the rear would have been possible.
Old 07-11-2005, 11:03 PM
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nick: trust me, I know about the head bolts .

I was thinking, if I were in Bill'* position, i'd torque all bolts the same [the way you get it the first time], then go back and make sure it'* still the same torque. To compensate for the header getting closer to the head. As far as bolt stretch.. IMO if the stretch varies so much between the bolts to the point where it will make the header not seal properly, and you are going to worry about it.. get new bolts.

I will agree about the bolts needing retorquing after a few heat cycles.. when I pulled my headers again they weren't very tight, but i torqued them down to 50ft lbs. Felt like around 30ft lbs.. maybe 40 at most.


-justin
Old 07-11-2005, 11:05 PM
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50 is too tight, hoss. Yours should be 37-41 ft/lbs max.
Old 07-11-2005, 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 2000SilverBullet
I know our gaskets are solid steel so should have no compressibility issues.
thanks for the update as I have never removed a pontiac head yet......
Old 07-11-2005, 11:08 PM
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The two ratchets in my collection that get used the most are the swivel heads. The are so universally great that they are the first I reach for.



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