Hi how is everyone doing? Thanks for reading and trying to help...

Starting yesterday my car started beeping at me. Just off and on. So then me and my friend starting checking everything. No lights were coming on in the dash or anything, and the car starts and runs normally.

So I started thinking what could this be, so I finally narrowed down to my ignition or whatever (where i turn my key, sorry couldn't think). The beep actually sounds like my keys are in, the car is off, and the door is open. You know the sound that reminds me to grab my keys... It does this when my car is off and the keys are out (its sitting outside with the fuse for the "chime" out right now), and when I'm driving. It will beep then I'll go over a bump and it will quit a little bit, then come back.

So I am pretty sure thats it, and I was wondering: How much is this to fix?, or rather could I do it myself? How much does the piece cost, and how much do i have to replace... any information would be awesome. Thanks, Levi

Drop me a line: coolguylevi@gmail.com

Cool thanks! Any idea how i could clean the connections? Where should I look? Thanks!!!


coolguylevi@gmail.com

The security dash light on my '91Bonne SSE (117k mi.) stays on when the doors are closed, locked, and/or the alarm is set. All of the doors and trunk sensors work with the onboard monitor system, so I am assuming that the plungers are all working.

The car runs fine and passes smog everytime. The only other glitches are: hesitation/chugging on a cold startup (may be due to the original cat?), and a tach that will jump around during steady cruise.

Your hesitation/chug under cold driving is related to the tach jumping. Remove your ICM connector, clean, and apply dieelectric grease. Make sure you make that bolt snug. Not godzilla-strength or anything, but not loose either.

If the security light only stays on when the alarm is armed, that means it sees an error [one of the doors open is the only thing that comes to mind. trunk/hood doesn't matter]. The alarm is somewhat separate from DIC controls. The DIC doesn't use the plungers [you may test this by opening the door, turning the ignition on and pushing in one of the plugers, the DIC will still think that door is open]. It uses something else, but I am unsure what exactly. The illuminated entry uses the plunger on the body [not the black one on the door]. The alarm also uses this. Now, if the courtesy lights turn off when the door is closed, and the automatic locks work, then the plungers are all functional. This means there is a wiring issue to or at the alarm. The most likely cause is the connectors at the alarm. I had issues with them, so you may have them too. This is also the easiest to check and/or fix.

The alarm is zip-tied to one of the passenger'* 4x6 speaker bolt holes [underneath the cloth cover]. Drop the glovebox [two rubber hangars on either size of glovebox], push in both simaltaniously and it should drop all the way down. Cut the zip tie, and make sure the box doesn't fall too far down. There are several connectors [8 IIRC]. Four are for the doors. There are also several others, one for the locks [so when you turn the ignition on the doors automatically lock], ignition only 12v, constant 12v [i could be wrong on this one], and one for the horns. Anyways, it doesn't really matter a whole lot. Just remove all these connectors and install them a few times [removing any corrosion that may be present on these connections]. My automatic locks would go wacky sometimes, and it took some dieelectric grease and a little pinching with some pliars [connector would easily fall off or loose contact] to get them to function properly. You may need to do that with your'*. You may even have some that are unplugged, or the entire thing unplugged. Well you are in luck, because there is a label on there, that has the wire colours listed on there. Also the function the wire serves. But mine was pretty worn, so your'* may be too, if need be I can give you the colours.[/quote]

I'll give those a try this weekend.

edit: bad news... the wife drove it home with a bad misfire. Maybe the ICM is toast. I replaced the coil pack at the 90k tuneup, but I don't think the ICM has been checked. Or, it could be fuel... I'll have to double check my service log.

I opened the glove box and looked around behind it. All I saw were relays: 2 for the auto locks, one hella taprd high, a white one screwed to a support down low. No box zipped up high. Any other physical clues? Wire colors?

Leaving the light on for 3 days did drain the battery. Once I charged it back up and fiddled with the ICM connector, it fired right up. Not much mis-fire, but a little. I think the fuel filter may be clogging. I checked my service log, and I had r/r'd the coil pack and ICM under 15k mi. ago.

Rock auto shows this relay as the theft deterrant relay (5-wire with one-hole bracket). The picture looks exactly like the Hella relay that was taped to another loom behind the glove box.

The alarm box is zip tied up on the mounting hole for the 4x6 speaker, which is located on the dash pad. You probably can't see it from down there, but if you remove the cloth cover on the passenger'* side, you should see a black box zip tied to a mounting hole. Cut that zip tie and the box should fall down enough to retrieve it from above the glovebox.

Replace your ICM and coil packs with donor units from a 93 or newer. AC Delco type 2.

Be very careful with an unknown beeping warning under the dash. That CAN be an indication of master cylinder failure. We've had 3 members here try to disable it before they knew it was the brakes failing.

First thing that comes to mind is being an older car.. the lock cylinder might be stuck in the key in position.

I've seen this before and tapped the column to stop it. Then lightly graphite powdered the cylinder to lube it up.