Root of problem found
#1
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Root of problem found
So i finally gave up with trying to find the root of my non idling problems....and got the car a diagnostic. Found out the camshaft sensor issue was due to a loose timing chain on the car.
My question now is....how easy is putting a new chain on the car? Do i need to drop the oil pan. My haynes manual says i need to but my friends dad says i dont...he was a former mechanic.
Is this going to be something i can do....as you can tell im a noob but im slowly learning.
Also, i guess my main concern is getting the crank shaft and crank sensor off because you have to shove a breaker bar into the gear in order to turn the bolt to take the pulley off.
So i just need some pointers on what im doing.
Im not completely clueless but help is always appreciated.
My question now is....how easy is putting a new chain on the car? Do i need to drop the oil pan. My haynes manual says i need to but my friends dad says i dont...he was a former mechanic.
Is this going to be something i can do....as you can tell im a noob but im slowly learning.
Also, i guess my main concern is getting the crank shaft and crank sensor off because you have to shove a breaker bar into the gear in order to turn the bolt to take the pulley off.
So i just need some pointers on what im doing.
Im not completely clueless but help is always appreciated.
#4
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True Car Nut
while you are in there though, i say replace the cam sensor magnet too. i imagine everybody has thrown one at least once in their ownership , and it would be nice not to have to worry about it.
#5
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Certified Car Nut
The oil pan does not need to come off, but three of the bolts that enter the lower face of the timing cover do. I wish it were just the oil pan that would need to come off, though. Everything you do have to remove is a pain because of the torque axis mount.
#6
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So ive been reading around, and whats the best way to get the HB off along with the crank pulley? ive seen sticking PVC pipes in the teeth of the gear....a large screw driver....a breaker bar.....but also, whats the way of cranking the car over till it comes loose?
This is the only part of the ordeal that worries me because i dont want to start a job i cant finish because of one stupid bolt.
Thanks for the help
Dave
This is the only part of the ordeal that worries me because i dont want to start a job i cant finish because of one stupid bolt.
Thanks for the help
Dave
#7
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Not sure what you are referring to, on the "C" engine the HB is the crank pully (serpentine belt). Easiest way to remove is with an impact wrench and patience.
Is a way to brace a long breaker bar on the floor and tap the starter but you need to know exactly what you are doing and acept the risk that it might fly off.
I would use only a six point impact socket in any case.
Is a way to brace a long breaker bar on the floor and tap the starter but you need to know exactly what you are doing and acept the risk that it might fly off.
I would use only a six point impact socket in any case.
#8
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i just replaced my chain
i just wedged a large crow bar between the alternator and the crank pulley and needed a cheater bar cause it has over 200 ft/lbs of tourque.. good luck, i have a damn oil leak i need to find now
#9
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Re: i just replaced my chain
Originally Posted by eddieinsac
i just wedged a large crow bar between the alternator and the crank pulley and needed a cheater bar cause it has over 200 ft/lbs of tourque.. good luck, i have a damn oil leak i need to find now
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#10
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When I replaced my timing chain, I had to pull the timing chain cover (not fun!), the oil filter adapter (the one for the oil cooler lines), and the oil pan. I highly recommend removing the oil pan and replacing the gasket ... unless you like oil leaks that is!