The Possessed Brake Pedal
#11
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how can i tell what the offender is? where are the abs fuses? and would this also be consistant with the pedal thing <i'll go on a limb and call it the abs feedback unit> allowing the pedal to slowly proceed to the floor if i were to stay on it? also, i have no abs. the brakes lock up if i push them too far.
#12
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There is another member here, Padgett, that has some testing procedures on his website. It uses both the brake and ABS light and the time it takes them to turn on or off under certain conditions. We'll have to find the link.
The pump fuse is #9 and the ABS fuse is #8 under the steering column. I'm guessing here when I say I think your pump is working after re-reading the whole thing. You say that you can hear the pump going. Just make sure it'* not the ELC compressor that you hear.
The pump fuse is #9 and the ABS fuse is #8 under the steering column. I'm guessing here when I say I think your pump is working after re-reading the whole thing. You say that you can hear the pump going. Just make sure it'* not the ELC compressor that you hear.
#13
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Guys there are two things going on here. First it sounds like you have the TEVES abs which has two circuits, a boost circuit (the Red Light) and the ABS circuit (Yellow Light).
If the boost circuit fails the red light will come on and the ABS system will detect the red light and turn off (yellow light on).
The most common failure at this age is the accumulator (black ball on top that spins like an oil filter) There are a sesries of tests at http://www.reatta.net/brakes/brakes_...eshooting.html that you can run (all Reattas have ABS and if you think the GN crowd are fanatics...) and there is a very complete description in the 5E section of the service manual. Them is different.
Now there are two forms of "hard pedal". One is the conventional "no boost" and if you put both feet on the pedal you can get some stopping with the front brakes only (rears operate by magic. No boost, no magic.) The other is a very rare case where the main valve jams open and the pedal literally pushes back at you. 2200 psi worth if everything else is good. If this happens park the car until fixed. Period.
The best fix I know is a complete rebuilt unit (with new accumulator) from http://www.priorreman.com/ - about $600 and a lot cheaper than any dealer quote you will get.
BTW the TEVES ABS has its own computer module but I have never seen one fail, many people have spare good ones for a few bucks.
ps I am still looking for a factory CD radio for our 90 Bonne.
If the boost circuit fails the red light will come on and the ABS system will detect the red light and turn off (yellow light on).
The most common failure at this age is the accumulator (black ball on top that spins like an oil filter) There are a sesries of tests at http://www.reatta.net/brakes/brakes_...eshooting.html that you can run (all Reattas have ABS and if you think the GN crowd are fanatics...) and there is a very complete description in the 5E section of the service manual. Them is different.
Now there are two forms of "hard pedal". One is the conventional "no boost" and if you put both feet on the pedal you can get some stopping with the front brakes only (rears operate by magic. No boost, no magic.) The other is a very rare case where the main valve jams open and the pedal literally pushes back at you. 2200 psi worth if everything else is good. If this happens park the car until fixed. Period.
The best fix I know is a complete rebuilt unit (with new accumulator) from http://www.priorreman.com/ - about $600 and a lot cheaper than any dealer quote you will get.
BTW the TEVES ABS has its own computer module but I have never seen one fail, many people have spare good ones for a few bucks.
ps I am still looking for a factory CD radio for our 90 Bonne.
#14
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if you hear the pump running when you first turn on the ignition, then its not the wiring, relays, or fuses, it is the accumulator.
-justin
-justin
#15
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shux, sound like the accumulator. for the link, thats what proved it all, because it described symptoms of the way stuff was acting before the brake pedal got possessed. where can i find one, and what should i ask for at the auto parts store, and what all is included with it usually.
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Accumulator for my car is GM part number 25528382 and it comes with a new O-ring. I have purchased from www.gmpartsdirect.com and their current price is $88 but watch out for their significant *&H charge.
Part spins on/spins off like an oil filter and you can use either an allen (think is 5/16") wrench or a strap wrench. Do not need to play Godzilla when installing since the seal is the O-ring.
When removing be careful to lift straight up as there is a silver tube in the middle.
Part spins on/spins off like an oil filter and you can use either an allen (think is 5/16") wrench or a strap wrench. Do not need to play Godzilla when installing since the seal is the O-ring.
When removing be careful to lift straight up as there is a silver tube in the middle.
#18
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Well you can think of the accumulator as a big spring. When you turn the key on the pump pressurizes the accumulator (compresses the spring) and then turns off. You then can make 2-3 stops before the pump turns on again. This allows use of a smaller pump that only runs occasionally.
Now as to the question of why an electric pump in the first place, the answer is that in europe (TEVES is German) you often have small engines working hard (not much vaccuum) and diesels which have no vaccuum atoll. In an environment like that, an electro-hydraulic system makes a lot of sense.
By 1991 GM had their own vacuum boost ABS ready and they stopped using the TEVES.
Now as to the question of why an electric pump in the first place, the answer is that in europe (TEVES is German) you often have small engines working hard (not much vaccuum) and diesels which have no vaccuum atoll. In an environment like that, an electro-hydraulic system makes a lot of sense.
By 1991 GM had their own vacuum boost ABS ready and they stopped using the TEVES.