huh? you've got me..


-justin

You said that you are losing brake fluid. If all of the fluid is drained from the system, you can't just pour in more and expect it to suck it in, you have to prime the system by pressurizing fluid into the pump. It won't just flow in on its own.

I have to replace the lines, then put in more fluid, then bleed the brakes. That will do it, right?


-justin

As long as you don't lose the fluid out of the pump you will probably be alright. I was able to get the GM service manual that the dealers use, when my dad and I rebuilt the epump motor. If you have to change the lines then you don't really have a choice. I wouldn't get too concerned though, if you lose the prime then you reprime it, no biggie. When you get it back together, turn on the key and you can hear the motor pressurizing the accumulator. As long as the pump shuts off after about 30 seconds then you know its fine. Iv've got the entire chapter on the teves abs system (92 pages) scanned into my computer including the diagnosis section.

Good, bad, and grey news. Lets start off with the good news. Resevior was empty.. filled it up, and I had power brakes! Yay! Now onto the grey news. Can't find whatever was leaking onto the plywood.. the only lines that run near it were transmission cooler lines, and that wasn't ATF.. the lines going to the caliper are fine and dandy, replaced not too long ago too. Bad news. Noticed there was an "air" sound.. thought nothing of it, until I noticed the resevior was loosing fluid quite fast. Filled it up thinking nothing was wrong. Noticed all the sudden quite a bit of dust comming up from the rear, stopped pumping the brakes [was de-pressurizing them], and the dust stopped too. So I start pumping again, watching the back, and there was tons of crap flying up from right in front of the driver'* side rear tire. I think, oh ****, this can't be good. Look under there, FLUID EVERYWHERE!! and just leaking down, around, and just BAH! It is everywhere! It is one of the steel lines going to the rear brakes I presume, which has sprung a nasty leak. What could this be?


-justin

That probably was it. Good thing it happened there and not on the road.

Yeah, not too bad. Grass was dead under there anyways. Any ideas how hard this will be to fix?


-justin

Unfortunately pal, it sounds like what my problem was right from the begining. The brake line from the MC goes into a proportioner valve located next the fuel tank. From there it splits to the 2 rear wheels. I noticed a leak, fiddled around down there, and then crumble crumble crumble. I felt like a superhero cause any metal I touched turned to dust. I spent two weeks or more trying to find the replacement lines I needed. They ended up coming from Canada. Freebees too!

Not a fun job but I was able to fix it.

bah.. this doesn't make me feel all that good. New ICM comming.. but no rear brakes. Do you by any chance have the lines you removed from your car? I'd just fab up the lines.. i'll never find a 'maro, and i'll never be able to get under the car at a yard. And, where you describe it being by the proportioner valve.. sound exactly where the leak is. the leak is comming right from the center. Did you need any special tools. That is my killer right there, buying tools.


-justin

It'* like a "one thing led to another story". Only one of the lines had a leak. It'* the crossover line that runs in front of the tank to the RR wheel. When I tried to remove it from the proportioner, the line going to the LR wheel sprung a leak. There was no way to remove the two rear lines (no room for the flare nut wrench) so I cut the line going into the valve. The valve was of unknown condition so I replaced it ($65 from GMPD). The two lines of the valve were purchased from an auto parts store (I'm testing my memory... 30" line from proportioner to LR flex hose, 60"+20" from valve to RR flex hose and a union. Probably $20). Then trying to find a 20" section of the line in... I think I have gray hairs from that.

I borrowed a double flare kit to complete the work. These can be rented or borrowed from auto parts places that have loaner tool programs.

I strongly do not recommend getting the parts from a junker. I doubt you could either cause they are probably in as bad of shape as yours are in or will be soon.