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#11
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Originally Posted by Bonneventure
also wanna include..I have a spare working computer and ignition box that I used to test this and still the same result...
also, what about the coils?
#13
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There is a six page section in the Factory Service Manual on "Cranks but does not run" that sepaerates the fuel system (injectors should rattle) from the ignition. I usually start by just pouring about a 1/2 oz of gasoline directly into the manifold and see it that makes a difference.
If it does, there is a fuel system problem, if not it is ignition.
If it does, there is a fuel system problem, if not it is ignition.
#14
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You need to re verify if you have spark. Also bend the prongs down on a 194 bulb, insert into and unplugged injector harness and see if it pulses. Let us know what you find.
#15
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Well I went back to the parts store and got another crank sensor. Replaced it, and the engine ignited. So I did get a defective sensor. Anyways I start driving it today and the SES light comes on anf off intermittentl. The car occasionally stalls and/or runs rough.. I'm like "Bring it on! You ain't gonna let me win are you? I'll give you the what for!!!" I get home an pull out my scanner, code 41. I'm like "i just replaced the magnet and the cam sensor 8 months ago!!!!" So I get out my volt meter and start testing, everything checks out. I go to my spare parts bin and pull up an old, crusty cam sensor. Install it, and it it finally runs without a hitch! What a PITA! Car is lucky that I love it so.
#17
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thanks Really appreiciate the discussion. I also just adjusted the TV cable. noticed the car under WOT would shift at like 5300 or so. It was in the red..... Nowit shifts earlier, right in the power zone at all ranges of load/speed. What a difference!
#18
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I'm going to assume you have the GX3 3.33 trans.. I can shift at 5300-5400 as well in my LE... But that is far out of the power and torque curve...
Glad you got it all worked out...
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