OK, just got the news... the dealer (or at least the service writer) says it is the ECM :(. They have tried the part and the skip goes away. They said the part will run me $225... does that sound reasonable? Also, at what point is it not worth doing repairs to the car? As part of all this, we have new wires, new plugs, the fuel system cleanout, a new thermostat, and then this ECM if I OK it. What do you all think? Because they have taken some time to do this and I haven't pestered them, they say they are trying to be fair on all this, considering the car'* age, etc. For all the above, the total will be about $500, including labor.

The car seems to be OK otherwise, but was this a bad idea for a second car?

TIA for everyone'* input. This is a great forum.

Pete

500 clams doesn't sound too bad considering the ECM is about half of it.

To tell you the truth the Bonnes are pretty reliable cars. I've had mine since new and I rarely have trouble with it. I still use it every day and other than the stuff I told ya bout earlier, nothing else major has happened to it. The body metal holds up well, the drivetrain is a warrior (I have 260000 miles on mine), and its still a joy to drive.

You should have good luck with it when its running right again.

Just personal but if putting plugs in would want RapidFire #3s and a 180F Stant Superstat.

Aside from that, yes, that sounds high (a replacement ECM is between $50 from a recycling center and $160 at Autozone), but dealers always are and if all of the above sounds like more than an afternoon in the garage then it is probably good for you.

Would expect at least a year'* warrenty on everything they do though.

From what I can tell, through many years of dealings, these guys are pretty decent. Everything comes with a 12/12 warranty, and, as a Pontiac dealer, I believe everything is Delco or OEM stuff -- probably nothing no-name.

The dilemma is how much to put into the car. But if this sounds fair, and if the general thought is that these cars generally run fairly long, then maybe it'* worth it. When it does run, it runs very smoothly and has great acceleration and decent handling.

So am I being screwed? Sounds like the answer is no, and if so, would you guys do the repair? Sounds like the answer is yes?

TIA

Well, the OK has been given. By tomorrow, I should have the car back. Will let you all know how it turns out and how the car runs. Maybe I'll even get a link to a photo...

On another note, back to my original post, should I change that tranny fluid or let it be... seems to be doing OK, but I wanted to get some other opinions.

What does it look/smell like?

I'd Change it. You should change the fluid every 60k miles. It is an oil that lubricates as well as powering the tranny. The heat has a tendency of destroying the oil pretty fast.

Steve

If it'* not the classic pinkish red color, consider it for the life of your tranny, but simply dropping the pan is insufficient. Get a full flush done professionally.

Well, I got the car back from the dealer Friday. The ECM was replaced, as already mentioned, along with the fuel system flush, wires, etc. The engine now runs smooth as glass, accelerates smoothly and doesn't stall out.

Unfortunately, there seems to be another problem now. The transmission, which seemed to work fine, now has a problem. Shifts are smooth, and the car holds on hills fine -- seems to be no slippage. But, as the car comes to a stop, there is sort of rough "burp." Almost seems to me that the torque converter isn't unlocking? Or perhaps something is up with the modulator?

We all know how transmission places are -- they want to do complete rebuilds. Forget that. What I'm wondering is this: Is there a possibility that one of the above scenarios would cause this? If so, is it in anyway related to the recent repairs? And, can the repair be done without a rebuild or replace? (At that point, I think I would cut my losses and sell the car).

TIA for any ideas...

Pete

Well, good news! Took the car to an old-timey transmission shop. He drove it, got out, popped the hood, and removed and reattached the modulator hose. Problem solved.

He recommended the flush and filter change (which I will do this week -- should I take it to the dealer for that or let this shop do it?) as well as replacing the modulator, which he said is about shot.

He wants to put an "adjustable" modulator valve on it. The current one he says is the original one. What are the thoughts on this adjustable valve? Should I get an original-type valve? I plan to get the fluid/filter changed this week; this shop quoted me $125 for the fluid and filter change and the new valve. Is this fair?

Thanks!