Originally Posted by MikeDiaz
hmm well if it came down to a subframe issue I think I'd be out of luck :(
My goal is to cheaply - albeit safely - get the '87 on its feet again. While I can't say I know that the sub frame would be expensive I do believe it'd be expensive since I've never done a suspension job that big so I'd probably have to get it done and that would be a $$$ job.
I guess I should try and remove my control arms as a first step. If I can get them off then I should go from there. If I can't remove them... well let'* just hope I can remove them.
Any tips on removing control arms?
The bolts and nuts are really tight to start with and then they get pretty rusty. Put the front up on jackstands and remove the wheels and anything else that gets in the way. Since your new ones are bolt-ins, you can remove the ball joints from the arms by unbolting them. If the sway bar end links are rusted, chisel open the sleeve in the center and cut the bolt. You may want to unbolt and push the drive axle through the hub to let you swing the strut and knuckle back out of your way. Unbolt the brake line clamp to give you a little more swing.
Where the control arm bolts to the subframe, take a wire brush to the exposed threads on the bolts and get them as clean as you can. Spray them with Power Blaster penetrating oil, Kroil, or Seafoam Deepcreep, (NOT WD-40, that stuff is useless as a penetrant) then whack the end of the bolt with a 2-lb hammer to encourage the oil to migrate between the nut and bolt. Let them sit for a day, and repeat the oil and banging. On the third day.....if you don't have an impact wrench, get a 1/2" breaker bar and a 4' cheater bar to multiply your torque. Jam a 6-point wrench on one end and engage the other end with a 6-point socket on your breaker bar. If you can, try to turn the nut and hold the bolt head. It will be more likely to come loose that way. The shaft of the bolt often rusts into the sleeve in the rubber bushing. Keep the wrenches aligned nice and straight. You should be able to break the bolts one way or the other if your lever is long enough, your wrenches are strong enough, and you keep everything aligned.
Other options: Acetylene torch, Dremel tool to cut nut longitudinally or bolt axially. Once nut is gone, you can drive out the bolt. You may need to get creative; just be encouraged, there is not a nut and bolt that can withstand repeated attention from a determined mechanic.