Here is the thing, most of you know about my rotting out subframe mounts. I was curious. To see if I could prolong this from breaking prematurely. You know the core braces and engine dogbones installed on W bodies and A bodies? Well I know the front on an H-body is not strong enough to hold it alone, so why no me fabricate some holes and such and work out a single dogbone engine mount on my block. Now the thing is that I probably have no problem making the holes in the sheet metal, but can anyone tell me if those 3800s that have those dogbones have them WELDED to the block or are they bolted on? Also. Were there any W bodies or other that had the LN3 that would have a bolt on brace.

I really don't have the money to get another car right now, all I need to do is prolong it for a while until I CAN afford to get another.

W-body 3800s are L27s, not LN3s. I would imagine that with enough skill you could fabricate a dogbone mount, or retrofit a W-body one on there. They are bolted on, it'* kinda like threading a bolt opposite to the dogbone and opposite of the other side, [one side _ one side | ). Then rubber in between the 'bone itself and the bolts you have holding it all together. Only thing though, I'm not sure if our top support [right by the radiator] is as strong as a W-body'*, as in i'm not sure it wouldn't just rip that whole piece out with engine torque. Might want to do some investigating into that one.

I know that. Thats why I said it would require braces just like the W bodies. The Ws nor the As are strong enough, and thats the reason for the braces, I'm sure the braces would allow the H body'* support to be just as strong. The only problem i see is that on A bodies and W bodies, the radiator sits down lower allowing the brace to sit over the top of it safely. And Yeah, I know how they are constructed. Remember, I owned an A body. Anyways. The only problem i see is the height of that radiator. thats it.

But all I'm wondering is if there are provisions on the LN3 for a front engine mount. Thats all. And what would be required in making it work?

Naw, but I bet the strongest part on that motor is where the engine hoist hooks are, attached at the exhaust manifold bolts. That'* where I would want it bolted to. If you go with the strut bracing like on W-bodies, that won't do squat either. That'* for handling, not dogbone mounts. The question of integrity is if you bolt and/or weld an engine mount to that 1/8" metal right above the rad [or to the side of it, whatever], I bet it will just rip out of that metal. Not detach it from the fender. I'm not sure how I would go about reinforcing it other than doubling the thickness of that metal. My corsy has a dogbone mount on the bottom of the core support, if it weren't so snowy i would go look how thick taht metal is... maybe i'll look for pics or something.

just so other people know what i'm talking about

the two braces that come off the fender and bolt to the core support and the dogbone on the engine





i guess its pretty evident that the radiator sits underneath the core support on a w body and on an h body it sits behind it because of the lack of metal. i see where this could co wrong if not fabricated correctly

John...i'm actually looking into a dogbone mount myself. I haven't tested the radiator support or looked at it closely to determine how much support it will be able to provide.

However, it will need to be at least a certain strength or the first time you put the car in gear...you'll rip the support. Clearing the radiator is another factor. We have a plastic top rad hold down that appears it will be in the way. Captain Mod It, has no issue cutting and reshaping this plastic. Again though...if the rad support is simply going to rip out...it'* not worth trying.

You might need to strengthen the support. Honestly, my thoughts are if the car is rusting and coming apart that quick. Save the money and get something else. It won't be safe to drive, and we'd be more concerned about your safety than if the motor is going to torque a little.

As well..I drove about 2 weeks on a failing trans mount. As long as you don't put the pedal to the floor from every stop, it should stay where it is.

The radiator core support was never designed to use dogbones and is too weak. It'* only thin sheetmetal with no reinforcement.

Your subframe mounts have rotted? Replace them! Engine mounts rotted? Replace them too. These cars really don't need a top dogbone mount. I think that as long as you have good mounts, no matter the age, the car will shift smooth.

Look, if they're that bad, you should not be driving the car. I hate to see what else has gone bad under there. You really don't wanna risk an accident or something worse. That kind of stuff can be easy to replace. If you had a shop do it, it'd be about 2 hours labour by an experienced guy, plus the cost of parts. Its prolly a 300-400 dollar deal, but the improvement would definitly be worth it, and the car'* life will be prolonged significantly.

I find replacing worn out suspension bushings, engine mounts, and worn out subframe bushings, makes a huge difference in the way a car feels. Its not that hard with the right tools. Heck, If I were closer, i'd be able to help ya do em.

Anyway, nuff said.

I've seen a Cavalier somewhere that had two steel bars welded vertically to the subframe then another crossbeam welded to those above the radiator support. The dogbones were bolted to the crossbeam.

well the only thing is...i don't HAVE another real option but to drive the car. i dont have the money to replace the car so eh. And Tim, its not the mounts, its the unibody of the car that the mounts are attached to that is gone. its the salt damage, thats all. so anyways, we'll see. thanks for the suggestions guys, i'll just keep my eyes peeled for a cheap car nearby.