Looking for smart men to answer car problem....
03-30-2004, 07:48 PM
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Looking for smart men to answer car problem....
yesterday my serpentine belt snapped and got lodged in my water pump. I had to replace the water pump and got the belt on BUT now the coil won't get a charge and the fuel rail barely has any pressure. I would appreciate any & all advice.
03-30-2004, 08:05 PM
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Is the belt on the alternator, when you had the water pump changed out did they have to remove the alternator to get at it? Maybe they left something unhooked?
03-30-2004, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by PontiacDad
Is the belt on the alternator, when you had the water pump changed out did they have to remove the alternator to get at it? Maybe they left something unhooked?
03-30-2004, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Custom88
Is the car able to start? If so, how does it run? How is the voltage at the battery when the car is off, (and if it starts) when it'* running?
03-30-2004, 09:00 PM
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Mom, do the code retrieval procedure in Techinfo, or get a scantool on that. Didn't that rugrat of yours buy a scantool? Does he have the right cable for your car too?
03-30-2004, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by willwren
Mom, do the code retrieval procedure in Techinfo, or get a scantool on that. Didn't that rugrat of yours buy a scantool? Does he have the right cable for your car too?
03-30-2004, 09:51 PM
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The shredded belt could have damaged the crank sensor wire harness. But even without it, the car should start on average, one out of 6 tries. Make sure you completely 'key off' between attempts to start.
What voltage is the battery reading?
What voltage is the battery reading?
03-30-2004, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by willwren
The shredded belt could have damaged the crank sensor wire harness. But even without it, the car should start on average, one out of 6 tries. Make sure you completely 'key off' between attempts to start.
What voltage is the battery reading?
What voltage is the battery reading?
03-30-2004, 10:09 PM
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a: you do not need a belt to start the engine but should not let it run for more than a few seconds that way.
b: with a bad crank sensor, you will not get any spark or codes. I would check for spark and pressure in the fuel rail first.
c) if no spark there is a six page section in the factory manual on "cranks but does not run" - chart A-3 in section 6E3-A however usually boils down to the crank sensor or the electronic ignition module (under the coils). In this case I'd also check if the crank sensor plug is still in the sensor socket, whipping belt could knock it out. If so you just need to plug it back in if otherwise undamaged (four wire connector down by balancer)
d) check the crank sensor for physical damage, sometimes you need to pull the harmonic balancer first (10 minutes) to be certain but all three magnets need to be there.
b: with a bad crank sensor, you will not get any spark or codes. I would check for spark and pressure in the fuel rail first.
c) if no spark there is a six page section in the factory manual on "cranks but does not run" - chart A-3 in section 6E3-A however usually boils down to the crank sensor or the electronic ignition module (under the coils). In this case I'd also check if the crank sensor plug is still in the sensor socket, whipping belt could knock it out. If so you just need to plug it back in if otherwise undamaged (four wire connector down by balancer)
d) check the crank sensor for physical damage, sometimes you need to pull the harmonic balancer first (10 minutes) to be certain but all three magnets need to be there.