L27 under LN3 Induction
#31
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None of the pushrods are bent. I'll try removing all of the rockers and checking the valve heights that way. But, getting the car back on the road comes first.
#32
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Originally Posted by five7kid
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
This is very exciting... similar to Randy'* conversion of that series car to a Series II. This will give more possiblities to those with high mileage motors and a love for their cars.
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[quote="five7kid"]Got the intake off of the C engine last night. Turning it over, only the valves of the first two cylinders move - broken cam. Are these non-interference engines? If I can replace the cam & bearings, the engine should be good to go again.
Yes, it should be a non-interference engine. I measured the stock valve lift and the minimum deck clearance when I rebuilt mine. There shouldn't be a problem, but anything is possible. If it lost oil pressure, it may have lost a cam bearing, about the only internal problem I have heard of on these engines.
Yes, it should be a non-interference engine. I measured the stock valve lift and the minimum deck clearance when I rebuilt mine. There shouldn't be a problem, but anything is possible. If it lost oil pressure, it may have lost a cam bearing, about the only internal problem I have heard of on these engines.
#34
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Sure wish I would have known about you guys back in June. I'd have been more likely to get that information, and less likely to have driven it until it broke.
Cam bearings and gaskets are a lot cheaper than cam, cam bearings, and gaskets. Or another engine.
Speaking of another engine, it'* back in the engine compartment with about half of the upper things reconnected. Need to get it up in the air again to do the underneath things. Trying to decide whether or not to swap oil pans - the L27 has an oil sensor in the pan, and the handle is broken off of the dipstick - which is longer than the LN3 dipstick, although the tubes appear to be the same length. I probably won't get back to it until Saturday evening, although I might get to it some Friday (scheduled day off from work). Tomorrow evening I'm planning on replacing the intake manifold on the 396 in the '57, then Friday evening and during the day Saturday I'll be at the track again.
Also need to look at the disassembly photos to figure out how that front harness was routed...
Cam bearings and gaskets are a lot cheaper than cam, cam bearings, and gaskets. Or another engine.
Speaking of another engine, it'* back in the engine compartment with about half of the upper things reconnected. Need to get it up in the air again to do the underneath things. Trying to decide whether or not to swap oil pans - the L27 has an oil sensor in the pan, and the handle is broken off of the dipstick - which is longer than the LN3 dipstick, although the tubes appear to be the same length. I probably won't get back to it until Saturday evening, although I might get to it some Friday (scheduled day off from work). Tomorrow evening I'm planning on replacing the intake manifold on the 396 in the '57, then Friday evening and during the day Saturday I'll be at the track again.
Also need to look at the disassembly photos to figure out how that front harness was routed...
#35
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If you change the oil pan I think you will also need to change the oil pick up as well... I remember we had to install the L27 pan and Oil pick up on the LN3 block we used.. I believe we did this because the car had the oil level sensor and the LN3 did not..
And if you have to do this, you can reuse the oil pan gaskets if its in good shape...
Good Luck
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And if you have to do this, you can reuse the oil pan gaskets if its in good shape...
Good Luck
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#36
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I've had the pan off the first time I worked on the oil pump. The gasket wasn't in the best of shape then, so I picked up a new gasket just in case - I'll return it if I can reuse one of the existing gaskets.
I assumed the pan and pickup would have to go as a set. What I don't quite understand is why the dipstick would be longer on the L27, as I haven't done a good comparison of the two pans. I suspect it is deeper and "shorter" than the LN3.
If I don't change pans, I think I can drive the pin out of the dipstick handles and put my good handle on the other dipstick.
I assumed the pan and pickup would have to go as a set. What I don't quite understand is why the dipstick would be longer on the L27, as I haven't done a good comparison of the two pans. I suspect it is deeper and "shorter" than the LN3.
If I don't change pans, I think I can drive the pin out of the dipstick handles and put my good handle on the other dipstick.
#37
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For the dipstick, I had to drive the pin out of another 3800 dipstick, as the one I got was shorter than what i needed... I stuck the good handle on my original dipstick...lol
Some times you just have to make it work...lol
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Some times you just have to make it work...lol
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#38
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The dipstick differences may not be due to differing sizes of oil pans, but perhaps different oil capacities. Maybe one of the engines was on an SSE, and the SSE has a higher oil capacity than the lower trim levels. But the pans don't differ.
Also, the oil pan gasket, it'* crush bent or something like that, and is not reusable on the LN3, and I am assuming engines past that too. Says it in the FSM somewhere.. I reused mine, and although it worked for the most part, it has leaked oil on the pan a bit.. better to just replace it IMO.
Also, the oil pan gasket, it'* crush bent or something like that, and is not reusable on the LN3, and I am assuming engines past that too. Says it in the FSM somewhere.. I reused mine, and although it worked for the most part, it has leaked oil on the pan a bit.. better to just replace it IMO.
#39
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Got the underside buttoned up last night. Decided not to change the pan, just moved the good handle over to the L27 dipstick. Still have the front accessories (PS, alt, ignition) to install, and the throttle cables/cruise to hook up. Should be able to fire it up tonight.