Died on Road wouldn't re- start? Update: Fixed?
09-25-2004, 11:54 AM
#21
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Just a little correct for Padgett'* site. At the end of the wonderful explination of the switch, he says:
It really should be 96 and up won't fit. ALL Series I 3800 [nothing other than 3800 components will switch over, and I learned this the hard way 
] ICM'* will fit. However, ANY Delco Coils will fit on the ICM. Confused yet?
-justin
Caveat: I have been told that sometime after 1994 the configuration of the base plate changed. I have not confirmed this but be careful. The module and coils are all the same.
] ICM'* will fit. However, ANY Delco Coils will fit on the ICM. Confused yet?-justin
09-25-2004, 12:56 PM
#22
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Posts like a Ricer Type-R
That'* correct. There was a BRACKET change several times through the years, but the ICM'* and Coils remain compatible. EXCELLENT writeup Padgett. Can we link that in a Techinfo article?
09-25-2004, 04:02 PM
#23
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Expanded/fixed the text in the modules area (near the bottom). Thanks for the suggestions and feel free to link. Cam Magnet replacement info may also be of interest.
09-26-2004, 10:27 PM
#25
update
Hope you get the problem fixed, so I can fix mine. Mine has the exact same problem you describe. I find that if I just touch the wires and go crank it, it will crank right up. I have checked the harness and all looks good. What is strange is that if you wiggle the wires while it is running with a stck, it will not stall. I don't get it.
09-28-2004, 04:27 PM
#26
Senior Member
Certified GM nut
Thread Starter
wires
I assume you are talking about the module wires and connector.
If you have not already done so, tighten up on the bent wire sockets that go onto
the pins of the module. Its a little hard to do. I use the small screwdriver out of
the six driver set that they sell in the little clear plastic case.
If your connecting sockets on the harness are loose they will loose contact between hot and cold or vise versa.
It is almost a week now with the 91 LeSabre module,and no problems, but I don't want to be too optomistic yet.
If you have not already done so, tighten up on the bent wire sockets that go onto
the pins of the module. Its a little hard to do. I use the small screwdriver out of
the six driver set that they sell in the little clear plastic case.
If your connecting sockets on the harness are loose they will loose contact between hot and cold or vise versa.
It is almost a week now with the 91 LeSabre module,and no problems, but I don't want to be too optomistic yet.
10-10-2004, 08:15 PM
#27
Senior Member
Certified GM nut
Thread Starter
no stalling
Update:
I'm happy to report its been more than two weeks and No stalling.
My confidence is rising that its fixed.
I've thought back at what it was and was'nt as follows.
Was not: * Battery or connections or grounds.
* Relays, computer or crank sensor.
* Fuel system, pump or fuel.
* Wires or wiring harness.
Most likely
Was:
* Loose pin sockets on module connector.
* Module itself.
The pin connector sockets were tightened from side to side first pulling each bent prong
forward with a tiny screwdriver.
The car never stalled once this was done.
I then replaced the module as an added insurance.
I'm happy to report its been more than two weeks and No stalling.
My confidence is rising that its fixed.
I've thought back at what it was and was'nt as follows.
Was not: * Battery or connections or grounds.
* Relays, computer or crank sensor.
* Fuel system, pump or fuel.
* Wires or wiring harness.
Most likely
Was:
* Loose pin sockets on module connector.
* Module itself.
The pin connector sockets were tightened from side to side first pulling each bent prong
forward with a tiny screwdriver.
The car never stalled once this was done.
I then replaced the module as an added insurance.
10-10-2004, 10:07 PM
#29
Not mine
I tried the pin tightening trick and on the first start it wouldn't crank. Got out and moved the wires a little and retried. It crank right back up. I will be changing the crank sensor with a GM brand as soon as I get the extra cash.
10-11-2004, 03:53 AM
#30
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just a little test for you guys. When cranking, if the tach doesn't show 500 rpm [or whatever] when cranking, and it just sits at 0, then you have a problem with the ICM, or something to that effect, because there is a break in the line somewhere, either from the crank sensor not giving the data to the ICM, a broken wire, the ICM not reporting back to the ECU/tach, or another broken wire somewhere. Just to help with any troubleshooting you may have to do later on.
-justin
-justin