Delco Ignition swap - compatability question
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Delco Ignition swap - compatability question
I have the option of buying an ignition module and coil packs from a '98 bonneville. I know that the coils and module themselves will work, but I have heard some doubt that the bracket itself will bolt up to my vin c.
The bracket I am referring to is the thin metal plate on the bottom with three protruding studs. Does the '98 have that same bracket setup? If not, would I be correct to assume that any series I coil/module assembly would be a easy bolt on, but that they changed the series II?
Thanks in advance.
The bracket I am referring to is the thin metal plate on the bottom with three protruding studs. Does the '98 have that same bracket setup? If not, would I be correct to assume that any series I coil/module assembly would be a easy bolt on, but that they changed the series II?
Thanks in advance.
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Okay, here'* the thing. I have a SII and SI ICM, and the bracket for the SII [the SI, is the same as my LN3'* bracket]. Now, here'* the issue. NONE of these bolt up. You have to modify the ICM slightly [just drill the hole out a little on the bottom right hand bolt hole].. and you are good to go [it is slightly off center, however it is securely mounted, which is what counts . The SII ICM I have is EXACTLY the same, as far as the ICM goes, as the SI, so it would take the same amount of work to get either to fit. So, yes the SII ICM will work just as good as any other SI ICM will. If you need more help, just ask.. and I can post pics and a better write up if necessary.
-justin
-justin
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Well, I am quite sure that Padgett and others have mounted the entire assembly (with the metal plate bracket w/three studs) from a donor series I without any modifications. I believe that what you are doing is somewhat different (either not using that plate at all, or something, not quite sure). I have actually seen your write up in another post, and the pics that went along with that.
My question was whether or not the metal plate w/studs was the same on the series II motors, or if I would have to seek out a series I. I understand, of course, that the actual ignition components are the same.
I'm sure I could do it as you did it, but I would prefer for it to be as factory and stable as possible, even if it costs a bit more to do so.
My question was whether or not the metal plate w/studs was the same on the series II motors, or if I would have to seek out a series I. I understand, of course, that the actual ignition components are the same.
I'm sure I could do it as you did it, but I would prefer for it to be as factory and stable as possible, even if it costs a bit more to do so.
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Well, it'* all up to you. The brackets could not be more different. The SII bracket just bolts up to the block, and the SI bracket bolts to the block, and the alternator. Don't even think of using an SII bracket on an SI or vise versa.
The only way to keep the "stock" look you speak of, is by drilling holes in the bracket. I am going to check this, for sure [just in case I missed something before].. however I am pretty sure you have to modify one or the other.
**UPDATE** There is absolutly NO WAY for this ICM to mount to the Bracket I own Unmodified.
-justin
The only way to keep the "stock" look you speak of, is by drilling holes in the bracket. I am going to check this, for sure [just in case I missed something before].. however I am pretty sure you have to modify one or the other.
**UPDATE** There is absolutly NO WAY for this ICM to mount to the Bracket I own Unmodified.
-justin
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Don, either you have far too much time on your hands, or you're just an awesome guy.
Either way, I thank you very much! That'* exactly the information that I needed.
I think I'll probably just seek out an entire Series I assembly, rather than piece it together... Then I'll have to see if it improves anything and post the results. Right now It'* just taking a bit longer than usual to start, and occasionally stalls right after starting. Maybe unrelated, but I've wanted to do this for a while anyway.
Either way, I thank you very much! That'* exactly the information that I needed.
I think I'll probably just seek out an entire Series I assembly, rather than piece it together... Then I'll have to see if it improves anything and post the results. Right now It'* just taking a bit longer than usual to start, and occasionally stalls right after starting. Maybe unrelated, but I've wanted to do this for a while anyway.
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I've got plenty of time, but no gauge. What exactly do I need to do that pressure check, and where can I get one?
I also hope to change out the fuel filter, since I know it'* been a while. Problem is, it'* a bit rusty down there, so I dont' know how well that will come off/go back on.
You are right though, it could be fuel related. I was just thinking weak ignition because it seems to crank and crank, but as soon as I let go of the key, it fires to life. Made me think that the ignition wasn't doing a good job until the starter wasn't draining any voltage. I could just be imagining things though.
I also hope to change out the fuel filter, since I know it'* been a while. Problem is, it'* a bit rusty down there, so I dont' know how well that will come off/go back on.
You are right though, it could be fuel related. I was just thinking weak ignition because it seems to crank and crank, but as soon as I let go of the key, it fires to life. Made me think that the ignition wasn't doing a good job until the starter wasn't draining any voltage. I could just be imagining things though.
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A basic way of testing the ICM, is if the tach is jumpy.. or inaccurate. When mine originally failed the tach would jump around a little, and wasn't the most stable. The other way, is by replacing the ignition altogether to see if it fixes it .
-justin
-justin
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Originally Posted by theJMFC
I've got plenty of time, but no gauge. What exactly do I need to do that pressure check, and where can I get one?
I also hope to change out the fuel filter, since I know it'* been a while. Problem is, it'* a bit rusty down there, so I dont' know how well that will come off/go back on.
You are right though, it could be fuel related. I was just thinking weak ignition because it seems to crank and crank, but as soon as I let go of the key, it fires to life. Made me think that the ignition wasn't doing a good job until the starter wasn't draining any voltage. I could just be imagining things though.
I also hope to change out the fuel filter, since I know it'* been a while. Problem is, it'* a bit rusty down there, so I dont' know how well that will come off/go back on.
You are right though, it could be fuel related. I was just thinking weak ignition because it seems to crank and crank, but as soon as I let go of the key, it fires to life. Made me think that the ignition wasn't doing a good job until the starter wasn't draining any voltage. I could just be imagining things though.
j/k
i need to do a FPR check as well, so if you end up buying the pressure gage (wink wink), let me know I want to test it further than seeing if it spits out a fair amount of gas after sitting for a while...
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Originally Posted by opensourceguy
A basic way of testing the ICM, is if the tach is jumpy.. or inaccurate. When mine originally failed the tach would jump around a little, and wasn't the most stable. The other way, is by replacing the ignition altogether to see if it fixes it .
Originally Posted by mkaake
i need to do a FPR check as well, so if you end up buying the pressure gage (wink wink), let me know I want to test it further than seeing if it spits out a fair amount of gas after sitting for a while...
Originally Posted by jr's3800
Its possible it could be a weak ignition... But it almost sounds like a fuel pressure issue... Funny though I had an unhappy ECM do this to me as well... Car would never start easy... Got a GM ECM and ir fired up every time with no problem... These cars get a bit funky as they age..