Well, I have not mentioned it yet to anyone ( except harofreak tonight on MSN), but the days may be numbered on the old girl.

It was brought in to check for a fuel leak, they found nothing. BUT it appears that there is a hole on the passenger side rear, in front of the tire, but under the car. So basically close to the rear passenger side of the floor. I was out of town so I have yet to see what it really looks like. I know it is just a matter of time, but still. I have already had both front strut towers patched, and both rear sub-frames patched. Once the rust starts, there is no stopping it. Especially a car that is 15 years old and lives in a northern climate with the salty winters.


There is ZERO extra $$$ to get another car right now too. I hope it can last till spring or win the damn lottery and buy another one. But I have already been TOLD ( you guys know what I mean by that), the car will have to either be another PRE-92 SSE or the NEW body style 00+. Oh and she also wants an Avalanche. At least it is another GM, lol.


Well that is my depressing rant. I hope to get under the car soon and see if we can't patch her up again and get a few more months out of her. But if she isn't safe, she isn't driven.

after you just dropped a low mileage engine in it?!? man just fix it as much as you can, after all the work thats in it, its just not worth it to get rid of it :(

Never said I wanted to get rid of it, I just don't know how many more patches she can handle before it is rusted in a spot that will make it unsafe.

A good body shop can weld in a fresh piece of anything. Most of their costs would be labor to pull it apart. If you pulled the interior (I think that'* where it is?) then you'd save a pile of $ and could get it fixed up.

It was seen from the outside, and I am not sure if it is in a bad area or not ( structural area ). I have to get under there and see, but I need a lift. Especially since the snow has already started.

The snow doesn't help you slide under...lol

I hope it works out Mike..lot of work into her lately.

I'd offer you my car Mike, but we kinda can't afford to upgrade right now, though we'd like to

got one for sale.

also galvanized stove pipe for sheet metal, pop rivets and bondo work wonders.

Uhh, no, if you are doing frame work, its definitly a no-no. Actually, each piece on these cars acts as support for the geometrical shape and strength of the car.

When I did repairs to my car, i did it with a 115 volt Millermatic MIG welder, with 75/25 argon co2. Sheetmetal, for me, cost 20 bucks a 4 x4 sheet, 22 guage.
Either that, or borrow a mig from someone. I'd use 16-18 guage metal on the frame, subframe, and the rest can be 20-22 guage. Do it in light tacks, slowly, and you'll have something that is as strong, or stronger than factory specs.

I suppose pop rivets, stove pipe, and whatnot is ok for items like doors, etc, where the car doesn't depend on it for strength.

Its really easy for me to say, since I've got the stuff at my disposal, like a huge heavy duty compressor, tools, and a welder, and etc..

Hows the tranny? and its 200,000 miles?

Tranny seems fine still. It is 200,000kms.