I trying to determine if I have more than one problem with this idoitic ABS. First of all, when the vehicle is started, the brake light is illuminated for about 10-15 seconds. As if the pressure is low and needs to be pumped up. This only happens when the car has been sitting for a few hours. Also, the brake pedal feels too firm. Applying light pressure to the pedal the car slows... a little more pressure it slows more... a little more pressure and I nearly get thrown through the windshield. Not smooth.

pagget and others have mentioned the accumulator as being a comon problem with this system but I wondering if there is more involved such as pressure switches or other components. From what I understand, if the MC is at fault I've got a great parts car 'cause it'* so expensive.

Looking for some guidance.

< has parts car, might work

Anyway, maybe your booster is wonky?

Lots of information here. The 88-90 Reatta came with the Teves ABS as standard equipment.

Thanks for the link. In order to to the brake test, I'll have to reinsert the fuse for the ABS controler as it appears that there is one or more sensors sending the system into a pulsing frenzy upon application of the brake.

Does the 10-15 seconds that it takes for the red brake light to trun off seem long to you? I noticed this immediately after washing the engine bay when she was made roadworthy. I couldn't tell you if this was happening before the wash.

I'll do the brake test this weekend along with some other work on the car. I'll post my results.

Thanks guys.

15-25 seconds after sitting overnight is typical as the pump needs to refill the accumulator and pressurize the system before the red light goes out. There should not be a "pulsing frenzy" when you hit the brake, I feel nothing unusual unless onse wheel begins to lock. Probably be a good idea to pull the codes.

Pull codes from ECM by jumping ALDL?

Similar. With the Teves you jumper either A-G (198 or A-H (later) and turn the key on. The ABS light will flash with the first code. Leave the key on and remove/replace the jumper. The next code will flash. I believe it stores up to 6 codes. When done the light will just come on and not flash.

Each code is two digits so watch for the pause between flashes.

I pulled the codes today. I'm not sure if I read them correctly. Here'* what I saw:

light on steady...blink...blink...pause...blink...light on steady.

I'm not sure if this means code 21 or 22. I disregarded the light on steady at the end and found these codes: 21, 35 & 47.

Obviously if the light on steady at the end counts as a blink as well, then the codes are 22, 36 & 48

I reinserted the fuse for the ABS controler for the first time since the car was registered and the ABS is still kicking in making difficult, not to mention scary, to stop. What'* strange is that it only begins pulsing as I slow the vehicle below 20 mph (hang on!). Quite frankly, I'd rather not have the ABS but I would like the feel of the brakes to improve.

you can just rip out the electronic brake controller to have the abs not work, I don't think its the best thing to do, but to fix the brakes, that may be where the problem lies. its located under the steering column and its black plastic with a HUGE [i emphesis huge] connector and a clip you have to push towards the box to remove, i pulled mine out, no codes just the abs light comes on till you plug it back in.


-justin

not sure as to what exactly my dad did, but I've disabled the ABS altogether; it kept coming on even with normal braking. Thing is, my ABS light is on steady because of it