car dies while driving then wont start for a while..? help
#11
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o.k
when i move the wires coming from the igniton coil module'* wire harness. then the car shuts off or turns on.. so i thought it might be a loose harness so i checked and it was so tight i could not even get it off.. on a link i was given by a fellow member (whom i thank) this is what i read that caught my attetion..
(quote) If you are testing a vehicle for this code check the routing of the spark plug wires making sure they are not to close to the EST circuit(*) wiring.
when i looked at my wire harness for the module i seen that the spark plug wires are all over and touching those wires coming from the module as they are not covered or proteced by any plastic like usual.. could this be a major issue? i will try to cover them with electric tape and a plactic covering from auto zone and also try to re route the spark plugs... hope it helps..
(quote) If you are testing a vehicle for this code check the routing of the spark plug wires making sure they are not to close to the EST circuit(*) wiring.
when i looked at my wire harness for the module i seen that the spark plug wires are all over and touching those wires coming from the module as they are not covered or proteced by any plastic like usual.. could this be a major issue? i will try to cover them with electric tape and a plactic covering from auto zone and also try to re route the spark plugs... hope it helps..
#12
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Whether the harness is tight or not, you need to loosen and remove it. Inspect both ends (plug and socket) carefully. Clean any corrosion you may find, and reinstall with dielectric grease.
Other causes of this code are:
Cam sensor.
Cam sensor pickup magnet on the timing gear.
Crank sensor.
Associated wiring between the sensors and the ICM.
Other causes of this code are:
Cam sensor.
Cam sensor pickup magnet on the timing gear.
Crank sensor.
Associated wiring between the sensors and the ICM.
#13
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If your checking the plug for the ICM, carefully inspect the wires themselves for the plug... I had a no start condition one morning, and it ended up being those wires were corroded so badly that on 3 of them, the sheating was completely gone, and one wire was woring on just one strand of wire, so I went to the wreckers and clipped one, and spliced mine, no problems since then...
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Originally Posted by willwren
And if you disconnect your battery, YOUR CAR WILL DIE. Welcome to modern GM vehicles.
Remove the two battery cables from the battery and pull the protective boots off. You can't see what you're looking for unless you do. 9/10 times with these symptoms (about a dozen a month) the owner finds corrosion hidden by the boots.
Remove the two battery cables from the battery and pull the protective boots off. You can't see what you're looking for unless you do. 9/10 times with these symptoms (about a dozen a month) the owner finds corrosion hidden by the boots.
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here is the wire
here is 2 pics of the clips.. the bigggest grey one goes to the ignition module and the one closer to the left of the biggest clip is the crank sensor clip.. not sure of the others..
anyway the blue one is the newest clip in the best condition i could find in the yards.. so i cleaned it up with some 711 dilectic cleaner lubricant and then recovered it with a high temp wire cover from a electrician that i know... and the older black one is a spair that i took and i did not recover or clean it yet.. i did not get to put the new clip in yet either as i just pulled it and re did it up today... if this dont work then my next step is to replace the crank shaft sensor itself... i already tried replacing coil pack...
here are the 2 pics......... hope you can see them...
http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w...t=DSC00458.jpg
anyway the blue one is the newest clip in the best condition i could find in the yards.. so i cleaned it up with some 711 dilectic cleaner lubricant and then recovered it with a high temp wire cover from a electrician that i know... and the older black one is a spair that i took and i did not recover or clean it yet.. i did not get to put the new clip in yet either as i just pulled it and re did it up today... if this dont work then my next step is to replace the crank shaft sensor itself... i already tried replacing coil pack...
here are the 2 pics......... hope you can see them...
http://s177.photobucket.com/albums/w...t=DSC00458.jpg
#17
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Originally Posted by 88bonnsse
it wont start untill i play with the wires again while trying to start it..
#18
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Ok, let me get this straight......the CONNECTORS get wiggled, but in that pic, the CLIPS on the connectors look intact.
So you're shaking that harness and the car will die? Or randomly start if it'* not starting?
Replace the harness. Use the spare sitting next to it.
That harness splits of the main wiringing harness (large black connector) and joins the cam sensor, crank sensor, and ICM into a 'communication loop' for lack of a better explanation.
The ICM must be able to see both the cam and crank sensors. In fact, the crank sensor signal actually passes through the cam sensor on it'* way back to the ICM. From there, the ICM passes that information on to the PCM after the first few seconds after a start.
For the first few seconds, the ICM itself determines spark timing and fuel injector pulses. After a few seconds, the ICM asks the PCM if it'* ready. If it is, the timing work is taken over by the PCM and the ICM sits 'dumb' in the engine, simply passing the sensor inputs off to the PCM, and firing the coils when told to by the PCM.
So you're shaking that harness and the car will die? Or randomly start if it'* not starting?
Replace the harness. Use the spare sitting next to it.
That harness splits of the main wiringing harness (large black connector) and joins the cam sensor, crank sensor, and ICM into a 'communication loop' for lack of a better explanation.
The ICM must be able to see both the cam and crank sensors. In fact, the crank sensor signal actually passes through the cam sensor on it'* way back to the ICM. From there, the ICM passes that information on to the PCM after the first few seconds after a start.
For the first few seconds, the ICM itself determines spark timing and fuel injector pulses. After a few seconds, the ICM asks the PCM if it'* ready. If it is, the timing work is taken over by the PCM and the ICM sits 'dumb' in the engine, simply passing the sensor inputs off to the PCM, and firing the coils when told to by the PCM.
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ahh mann
o.k so today i went to put the new blue wires on today that i redid and i ran into a problem... my wires on the car coming from the icm has 2 ground wire that comes from it and gets grounded right under the module itself with the negative battery cable from the cars battery..
the new wire i got from the yard and redid it came off a 1989 le model so i figured it would fit. just my luk the new wires i got and redid do not have the 2 ground wires coming from it like mine does.. do i need to get a new wire set specificlly from a 1988 sse ?
but anyway i think i found my problem,, the gound wires from my clip and the ground wire from my battery are all rusted and stuck together... i tried to take it off to clean it and put a new bolt but when i loosened it i noticed the bolt stayed still but i was loosening a big long screw from the other side of the engine as it got loose as i trind to take off the bolt for the ground,,,
anyone know what im talking about...?
the new wire i got from the yard and redid it came off a 1989 le model so i figured it would fit. just my luk the new wires i got and redid do not have the 2 ground wires coming from it like mine does.. do i need to get a new wire set specificlly from a 1988 sse ?
but anyway i think i found my problem,, the gound wires from my clip and the ground wire from my battery are all rusted and stuck together... i tried to take it off to clean it and put a new bolt but when i loosened it i noticed the bolt stayed still but i was loosening a big long screw from the other side of the engine as it got loose as i trind to take off the bolt for the ground,,,
anyone know what im talking about...?