Blew head gasket?
#71
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Originally Posted by BillBost37
Most people use fel pro gaskets for two reasons, they work good and the price is good.
On the use of gasket goop aka RTV on head gaskets...I'd suggest against it. Personal choice I guess.
On the use of gasket goop aka RTV on head gaskets...I'd suggest against it. Personal choice I guess.
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Tara knows how to drive.. but isn't like me. She'* always complaining about her fuel economy in the Jeep. My guess? If I get my car running before we work on her'*, and mine lasts longer than 40 miles, she'll listen to me if I tell her to do something.
Alec - you got me curious about this gasket cement.
-justin
Alec - you got me curious about this gasket cement.
-justin
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Personally I would use all of the Fel-Pro stuff except the head gaskets. The quality isn't poor, but if they are the same as the ones I received, the hole for the cylinder is too large, right around 4". The factory head gaskets are right about 3.850". It doesn't sound like much, but the added volume of the larger bore diameter will cost you a little compression ratio and it is more than you would think, plus it is almost useless volume that does little. Maybe the area will fill with carbon? The factory head gaskets work just fine if installed properly and routinely go hundreds of thousands of miles without problem. I'm running 8 lbs of boost on factory head gaskets with a 9.1:1 compression ratio vin C engine. I do have a set of Fel-Pros for a LN3, which were installed but the engine was never fired with them. I thought better of it and removed them. I threw away the used set of torque to yield head bolts and installed new. You can have the gaskets if you want them.
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Damnit wouldn't you know it i FORGOT to look at the stuff. Maybe i can find it on the internet.
:EDIT:
Here'* the link http://www.dragosupply.com/drago/ser...log/group.jsp/
Justins still a little skeptical, which i don't blame him at all for, so could we get some more feedback here? I swear this stuff is great for sealing.
:EDIT:
Here'* the link http://www.dragosupply.com/drago/ser...log/group.jsp/
Justins still a little skeptical, which i don't blame him at all for, so could we get some more feedback here? I swear this stuff is great for sealing.
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[img]www.jegs.com/photos/77580697.gif?SSImageQuality=Full[/img]
Permatex Copper spray, thats what your thinking of. Theres not really any need for it in your application seeing as its not really a high performance/compression project. You spray it on both sides of your head gasket right before assembly and it seals them very good. Generally used on copper head gasktes & also when a thin (.015" shim type) gasket is used, also helps when using an aluminum head on a iron block. Your using big fat ole' thick head gaskets that seal up minor imperfections very well. Yes, this couldnt hurt, but it would be a waste of money IMO.
Hit Jegs website for details, enter p/n 775-80697
Permatex Copper spray, thats what your thinking of. Theres not really any need for it in your application seeing as its not really a high performance/compression project. You spray it on both sides of your head gasket right before assembly and it seals them very good. Generally used on copper head gasktes & also when a thin (.015" shim type) gasket is used, also helps when using an aluminum head on a iron block. Your using big fat ole' thick head gaskets that seal up minor imperfections very well. Yes, this couldnt hurt, but it would be a waste of money IMO.
Hit Jegs website for details, enter p/n 775-80697
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I believe I found the problem. Went to Autozone [I hate it, but they have what I need in stock]. Picked up a set of Fel-Pro gaskets [$40 for both]. Looked them over, and they look 300% better than the GM ones I put on. They are completely different, and have those little beads around all coolant ports. The GM ones I had, were just like this silver metallic thing.. I will take a pic of all three sets I have [original GM ones, new GM ones, and the Fel-Pros] when I pull the heads off. I betcha any money that was the problem at hand.
I also looked for the product Alex recommended at Autozone, but they didn't have it, but what they did have is what 2x4 recommended. That copper gasket spray. I want to see it, before I put it on the head gaskets... I am really scared about doing it, because I really don't want to do this again.
jr: Remember the Acetone you recommended I use? I did the evap test again, this time with a little more product, and it seemed to evaporate pretty cleanly, but it still left a small residue, kinda oilly. Should I still use it?
-justin
I also looked for the product Alex recommended at Autozone, but they didn't have it, but what they did have is what 2x4 recommended. That copper gasket spray. I want to see it, before I put it on the head gaskets... I am really scared about doing it, because I really don't want to do this again.
jr: Remember the Acetone you recommended I use? I did the evap test again, this time with a little more product, and it seemed to evaporate pretty cleanly, but it still left a small residue, kinda oilly. Should I still use it?
-justin
#78
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The Felpro gaskets I had were the silvery metallic gaskets.... Fel-Pro stamped on there...
As for the acetone, You want to make sure it drys clean... No oils ... A can of brake cleaner may be better... You will want both surfaces to be as clean as humanly possible..
I have used Throttle body cleaner and or brake cleaner on the surfaces and have never had a single issue... I spray, wipe up what I can, spray again wipe some more, then I spray the surfaces again to make absolutely sure they are clean and free of oils and of finger prints or anything of the sort... Clean Clean Clean, I can't stress that enough
also a question.... How tight did you get the Intake bolts? They are roughfly supposed to be 10 ft lbs? I forget what its rated at in Inch lbs.... 120ish I think... I forget so don't quote me there... I am going to assume if they are over torqued that you could crack fracture the plastic and cause a leak... There are no metal inserts in the LN3 gaskets to keep you from overtightening them... I think in the 3800 series III that changed....
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As for the acetone, You want to make sure it drys clean... No oils ... A can of brake cleaner may be better... You will want both surfaces to be as clean as humanly possible..
I have used Throttle body cleaner and or brake cleaner on the surfaces and have never had a single issue... I spray, wipe up what I can, spray again wipe some more, then I spray the surfaces again to make absolutely sure they are clean and free of oils and of finger prints or anything of the sort... Clean Clean Clean, I can't stress that enough
also a question.... How tight did you get the Intake bolts? They are roughfly supposed to be 10 ft lbs? I forget what its rated at in Inch lbs.... 120ish I think... I forget so don't quote me there... I am going to assume if they are over torqued that you could crack fracture the plastic and cause a leak... There are no metal inserts in the LN3 gaskets to keep you from overtightening them... I think in the 3800 series III that changed....
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Alright, I have some TB cleaner.. i'll use that. Unless I find a few quarters, then I'll get some brake cleaner .
I torqued them to like 15ft lbs. I know I went over the stock torque rating a little bit. I'll be sure to inspect them.
-justin
I torqued them to like 15ft lbs. I know I went over the stock torque rating a little bit. I'll be sure to inspect them.
-justin
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Originally Posted by opensourceguy
Alright, I have some TB cleaner.. i'll use that. Unless I find a few quarters, then I'll get some brake cleaner .
I torqued them to like 15ft lbs. I know I went over the stock torque rating a little bit. I'll be sure to inspect them.
-justin
I torqued them to like 15ft lbs. I know I went over the stock torque rating a little bit. I'll be sure to inspect them.
-justin
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