Lately i've noticed that my car seems to take longer to start when cold. And when I say cold i'm talking below 0Fareneheit. I crank the car and it will start then die. Then the second time it will do the same. The third time it will start and stay running. I don't have to crank the car any longer than 3-5 seconds any time either. Also I reinstalled my MAF screen thinking this may help the problem but so far I've had no better results. I have no check engine light on and the car runs fine. I've checked for codes and every now and then it comes up with a code 44. Seems like I have better luck starting the car when I slightly press on the accelerator pedal. The car acts like it might be a lean mixture on startup. Any suggestions? I car seems to have only started acting this way with the cold weather. In the summer the car starts just fine on the first try.

Maybe a slightly clogged injector or line? Try some STP or something. Could just be some sticky oil as well, are you running the stock 10w30? You can go to 5w30 just fine, i did, but the temp dropped 20* and it feels like the 10w did before....

Code 44 is a lean code, check the basics such as fuel filter. You may be losing fuel volume when you want a rich mixture (cold startup). If you have access to a scanner, you may want to check intake air temp, this can affect cold start also.

I had this too. I replaced my fuel pressure regulator (on the fuel rail to the right) and it works well now. I think the cold accentuates the diaphram getting worn out, and the fuel runs back towards the tank. When you place your car into run the ECM primes the chambers with a burst of fuel. If there'* no fuel there, ya dont get none. Try testing it by putting the key in run a couple of times before starting in the morning (this is when it happens mostly right?).

Let us know!

Temperature was 21 below zero this morning and my car started just fine on the first try. Didn't have to push on the acclerator pedal or anything. I'm using 10w30 oil right now. The fuel filter is good. I'm thinking maybe the fuel regulator is bad. On a side note last summer when driving my car the summer heat I could hear a funny noise under the car that sounded like a fuel pump that was about to die. So maybe my fuel pump is about to go. I need to get me a fuel pressure tester and then I'll start some more testing.

Ok so here'* the deal. I went out to my car tonite to mess around with my fuel regulator. Well I relieved the fuel pressure and there was absolutely no pressure. The car had been setting since this morning. So i'm assuming the fuel regulator is bad. Well after I relieved the pressure I screwed the cap back on and went to start the car and I had fuel running all over the place. I took the cap back off and I unscrewed the pressure valve and replaced it with one out of a tire. My question is this a good idea or not. I'm not leaking any gas now but I was just wondering if maybe the gasoline would eat up a regular tire valve core? Any thoughts on that one people?

Isn't the shreader valve( I think that is correct) the same as on tires, it is just the pin with the spring on it.

If there was no pressure it sounds like your system is not holding a charge, I thought it was supposed to hold that charge for quite a while. Maybe a line has a small leak in it or something.

Then again with that "new" valve in it try it and see what happens.

It still doesn't hold any pressure after changing the valve so I'm thinking the pressure regulator is shot.

im not sure if the rubber insolation on the shrader valve ur using will survive permanately. Usually rubbers and wire insolation and stuff like that that comes in contact with oils has to be rated to be resistent to its effects as a solvant. just my opinion. I agree with your diagnosis, sounds like an unpredictable pressure regulator.