I didn't know about the no code 33 thing. That is really valuable info for me because it set me on the right path. The car runs well until it is warmed up. I believe you are correct and the MAF is garbage. The screwdriver tap seems to confirm this. Why does the car run well until it is warmed up? Is there a default setting, and if so is there a way to make it run on that full time until I get a (better) replacement MAF?
And thanks again for the detailed info, it was really useful. I am not sucking up, I just am happy to find a guy who knows all these details. OK maybe I am sucking up a bit.

Todd

Worth noting, you can limp along for awhile by unplugging the MAF, car will still run really crappy but at least sorta consistent till you get a new one. Don't expect any sort of gas mileage either.

For some reason, I am thinking that Autozone sells Remanufactured MAF sensors. At first I wondered HOW they rebuild it, maybe they just solder in new filaments?

Nonetheless, they are pricey and if $$$ is a concern, then Ebay or junkyard might provide some happy results.

And everything JRS3800 said, His advice hasnt steered me wrong yet

Thanks, I may try unplugging it. I am going to try people who are parting out cars, and if no luck there, then the junkyards. Buicks, Pontiacs and Olds had the 3.8 engines right?

This is the best site I have found on the internet, (well except for the one that has Elle McPherson in a bikini.)

Todd

I think one of my replacements from Ebay actually came from a 3.3 liter. identical style and plug layout though. Works and doesnt set a Check engine light. It helps when they have a pic of the item.

Thanks, more good info.

There is one on ebay right now for $9.99.

Todd

I have had code 34 before, it was my MAF. The car ran totally crazy like it was possessed. Bucking and loping, hesitating and stalling. Unplugged the MAF, ran a little better. But still totally a**tacular.

When it died on me I had nil for cash and did a wrecking yard run. Bought the first 3 in site for $10/ea. IT WAS COLD!

First one - Off a buick regal, worked fine. Engine came to perfect idle.
Second one - Off a olds delta 88, no go.
Third one - Off a 3300 buick century, worked fine. Engine came to perfect idle.

True there is no code 33... atleast for my 91 vin C. Should hold true for your 89-90.

Code 34 - There was no MAF signal for over 4 seconds while engine was running.

I would not think TPS. I ran with no TPS for about three days once till I could get a new one. Trans would not lockup with no TPS signal, and I seemed like someone replaced my 3800 w/ a Honda 1.6L. Idle DID search once in a while, but not constantly. Ususally for a cpl seconds when I just stopped at a light then go back to normal. Also there was no stalling whatsoever. It ran like it needed a major tune up.

Could make a theory about the IAC motor being sticky or has dead spots. That happened once to my brothers car, a 88 Pontiac 6000 SLE w/ 2.8L V6 (that engine was a hunk of junk). Did not throw any codes though, but the car hunted for idle constantly. I can not remember what codes IAC are sorry. However, on my car if I unplug it while idling, the idle takes off to like 3grand. Then i plug it back it and settles back to 750ish.

I would still try the MAF first. All I can think of right now.

Thanks guys,

I blew a whack on a new MAF just over a year ago. Turns out it was NOT OEM like I thought. I won't do that again. I have a line on a couple of cars that may be parted out. I'd rather pay 20 bucks for a used one and carry some spares. I called the junkyard and they want $100. I am in Canada, so that explains it. eh!