Thanks, 88bonnsse.
I'm green as a twig on this stuff.
I've worked mainly on Dodge Chargers, Chevy Trucks, and a Monte Carlo.
...all early to mid 1970s.
Connector - Air Charge Sensor
Connector - Barometric PSI Sensor
Connector - Camshaft Position Sensor
Connector - Choke Thermostat
Connector - Coolant Temp Sensor
Connector - Crankshaft Position Sens
Connector - Idle Air Control Valve
Connector - Idle Speed Control Motor
Connector - Ignition Coil
Connector - Mass Air Flow
Connector - Oil Pressure Switch
Connector - Oxygen Sensor
Connector - Throttle Position Sensor
Am I leaving any out?
Now, if I can find them all!

Thanks, theJMFC. I'll pull them and look.
It was O'Reilly'*. I never tested one before. I guess they knew what they were doing.
There isn't any way that fuel pressure could cause a "no fire" situation, is there?
...like some relay somewhere?

[ testing the fuel pressure. The way it'* acting, my gut feeling is a fuel pressure issue.

Keep us updated, eh? [/quote]
There isn't any way that fuel pressure could cause a "no fire" situation, is there?
...like some relay somewhere?[/quote]

no low fuel pressure will not cause a no fire.. the car will start and stall right away if it was a fuel issue... test the vooltage on your battery and make sure its atleat 12.5 volts or your car wont start... have you done this yet.? (check the battery.) maybe the alternator is not charging it.

Low fuel pressure can manifest itself in different ways, depending on just how low it is.

The way it was trying to start, then backfiring, then nothing at all... leads me to believe that the fuel pressure might have just deteriorated from good enough to drive, to not even enough to fire anymore in the time you've been working on it. That'* my hunch. Test the ignition first, anyway.

I'm honestly not sure I agree with going to all of the trouble of testing the connection of each sensor on the entire engine. Most of these sensors won't prevent a start, and the connectors don't fail all that often. The only ones I can think of that I would actually make sure were good and clean would be the crank sensor and the ICM connector.

Checking the battery voltage is a good idea. Check the battery cables for corrosion while you're at it.

Thanks, theJMFC.
Battery voltage is 12.26V.
I tried to start it, again, with no start, and I heard the fuel pump running, so I got out and depressed the access valve on the fuel rail.
I fully expected to get doused in fuel, but there was no pressure.
So, that begs the question:
What condition would take out fuel and fire at the same time?

If the fuel pump wasn't getting power, then the two could be related. Since your pump runs though, any problem with the fuel system must either be a blocked filter or line, or some other mechanical problem with the fuel delivery. Maybe a faulty fuel pressure regulator. In other words, nothing that would also affect the ignition.

Did you re-test the spark to confirm that it'* actually gone? It would be a very freak thing if you lost both fuel and spark at the same time. Unless somewhere in removing the coils and ICM, something was left disconnected, or damaged.

Also, are you certain that you depressed the fuel port valve enough to release fuel? I'd think you'd at least get something.

Even if it had jumped time, that wouldn't keep it from getting spark or fuel.

Thanks, theJMFC, jr's3800 and bastard.
I decided to retrace my steps, as theJMFC suggested. So, first, I checked the fuel pressure again.
I talked my sister into climbing into the driver'* seat and trying to start the engine while I depressed the core of the fuel rail'* Schrader valve.
I held a couple of paper towels over it while gently depressing it with my scout knife'* leather awl/punch.
I heard a little hissing the first couple of times and the paper towels got wet.
Then I tried it without the paper towels and I got a spurt about 3 feet high.
I suppose that it does have pressure.
I found the fuse box and, checking the sticker, I saw where there is a 10 amp ATC ECM fuse mounted in the number 17 slot.
If this fuse is blown, would I still get a lit-up "Check Engine" lamp?
Do I need to disconnect the negative battery cable before I pull it and check it out?
Thanks.
Jerry.